September 2004

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Autumn Is A Good Time To Plant New Trees And Shrubs By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University In western Oregon, a good time to plant new trees is between November and April. In the harsher climate of eastern and central Oregon, there are two planting seasons&emdash;September to late October and then in the spring, just after the ground has thawed until late June, according to Stephen Fitzgerald, forestry specialist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. Most trees and shrubs do not do well when planted in hot, dry weather. For detailed information about planting new trees, Fitzgerald has published an OSU Extension publication to help. "Selecting, Planting and Caring for A New Tree" is a 24-page illustrated circular that covers site and tree selection, landscape planning in the yard, planting site review and choosing the right species for your needs and environment. The guide provides information on how to transport a tree, store it temporarily, dig a hole and plant it. Also included is tree care advice including watering, fertilizing, staking, mulching and pruning. Selecting, Planting and Caring for A New Tree, EC 1438, is available on the web. Or order a printed copy by mail for $2 plus $3 shipping and handling per copy. Send your request and check or money order payable to OSU to: Publication Orders, Extension and Station Communications, OSU, 422 Kerr Administration Building, Corvallis, OR 97331-2119. Reduce Your Risk Of Identity Theft From University of Idaho's HomeWise The Federal Bureau of Investigation calls identity theft one of the fastest growing white-collar crimes in the United States. The Federal Trade Commission says 27.3 million people have been victimized during the past five years&emdash;9.91 million in 2003 alone. "Most people don't know that they have been victims of identity theft until mysterious charges appear on their credit card bills or they are rejected for a mortgage," says Marsha Hawkins, University of Idaho Extension educator in Jerome County. Identity thieves can use your name, Social Security number, credit card number or other piece of personal information to apply for a credit card, make unauthorized purchases, gain access to your bank accounts, obtain loans, rent apartments or commit crimes under your name. Hawkins gives these tips for minimizing your risk: • Carry only the identification cards you actually need. Unless you must produce it that day, always leave your Social Security card at home. • Cut up old or expired credit cards and close all inactive credit card and bank accounts. • Choose a Personal Identification Number or PIN for your ATM card that is different from your address, zip code, telephone number, middle name, mother's maiden name, the last four digits of your Social Security number, your birth date or any other information that could easily be discovered by thieves. • Memorize your PIN. Do not write it on your ATM card or store it on a piece of paper in your wallet. • Keep personal information in a safe place and out of sight of people working in your home. • Give your Social Security number only when absolutely necessary. • Do not give out personal information over the phone, through the mail or over the Internet unless you're the one who initiated the contact and know the business you're dealing with. • Each month, promptly compare your ATM receipts and cashed checks with your bank statements to check for unauthorized transfers or charges. Similarly, monitor your credit accounts. • Shred credit card statements, bank statements and pre-approved credit offers when you don't need them. To opt out of receiving pre-approved credit offers, call 1-888-5-opt-out. "Four out of five victims have no idea how an identity thief obtained their information," says Hawkins. "Victims often find that someone they know committed the crime." OSU Guide Helps You Pickle Your Garden's Bounty By Peg Herring, Oregon State University Overwhelmed by zucchini? Bowled over with beans? Pickle some of summer's bounty. You can prepare now for pickling season with the Oregon State University Extension Service's 18-page publication, Pickling Vegetables. The publication describes two types of pickles: Brined, or fermented, pickles require several weeks of "curing" at room temperature. During this period, colors and flavors change. Acid is produced as lactic acid bacteria grow. Quick, or unfermented, pickles are made in a day or two by adding acid in the form of vinegar. It is critical to add enough vinegar to prevent bacterial growth. "Pickling Vegetables," offers information on safe procedures based on U.S. Department of Agriculture recommendations. Included are recipes for several kinds of pickles, sauerkraut and pickled asparagus, dilled beans, three-bean salad, beets, hot peppers, marinated mushrooms and relish. And the publication includes a low temperature pasteurization treatment that may result in better quality pickles. You can get answers to questions by calling the OSU Extension Service food preservation hotline from July 15 to Oct. 15 at 1-800-354-7319, Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. The hotline is staffed by OSU volunteers and Extension staff. "Pickling Vegetables" (PNW 355) is available by mail for $1.50 per copy plus $3 shipping and handling per order. Send your request and check or money order payable to OSU to: Publications Orders, Extension and Station Communications, OSU, 422 Kerr Administration Building, Corvallis, OR 97331-2119. OSU Scientist Gives Safety Tips For Use Of DEET By Virginia Gewin, Oregon State University As West Nile virus surfaces in Oregon, the last remaining continental state to encounter the disease, Oregonians may be tempted to douse themselves in DEET - a potent and popular insect repellent - to protect against disease-carrying mosquitoes. The product is generally safe if applied properly, but DEET can pose health risks if you fail to follow label instructions, says Dr. Daniel Sudakin, a toxicologist at Oregon State University. Sudakin is an assistant professor in OSU's Department of Environmental and Molecular Toxicology who has a medical degree from Wayne State University. He has spent the last several years reviewing available epidemiological data on human exposures and subsequent adverse reactions to DEET. He's found that millions use products containing DEET, recommended by the Centers for Disease Control, safely and effectively each year. However, hundreds of adverse reactions, most commonly affecting the skin, are reported each year. The majority of these adverse reactions occur when DEET is overused or misused, Sudakin emphasized. "It is very important not to apply over cuts, wounds or irritated skin, which more easily absorbs the chemical," warned Sudakin. "You want DEET on the surface of exposed skin only." He also cautions that young children should never apply DEET to themselves because they may be unnecessarily overexposed. DEET should never be used underneath clothing as that can enhance absorption across the skin. After returning indoors, users should wash treated skin with soap and water - particularly if using a high concentration product. "People think more is better when it comes to DEET," Sudakin said. While DEET is the most effective repellent, he suggests that people use a concentration appropriate for the amount of time spent outdoors. For example, a product with a concentration of less than 10 percent is effective for people that will be outside one to two hours. In fact, concentrations containing 10 percent appear to be as effective as 30 percent. While there are products with 100 percent DEET, they may be useless. "Beyond 40 to 50 percent, there's just not much more protection," he said. Not surprisingly, young infants require special care. Recently, the American Academy of Pediatrics recommended that children under two months of age should not be exposed to DEET. DEET isn't the only insect repellent on the market. Alternative insect repellents registered by the EPA tend to be botanically derived, containing oils such as eucalyptus, soybean or citronella. These products typically do not last as long as DEET and can carry their own risk. "People tend to consider these as inherently safe," Sudakin said, "but in reality these can cause allergic reactions as well." With only six weeks left until mosquito season ends, no human cases have yet been reported in Oregon. But horses and crows testing positive in eastern Oregon herald its arrival. While Sudakin doesn't think Oregon's West Nile virus situation is as urgent as in nearby states, he cautions that the virus continues to surprise. "Nobody thought it would turn up in places like Arizona," he pointed out, adding that West Nile could be cause for greater concern in Oregon next summer. Citizens with specific questions about DEET should contact the National Pesticide Information Center at (800) 858-7378 or online at www.npic.orst.edu. Make The Most Of Your Veg Garden Space By Succession Planting By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Mid- to late summer is a transition time in vegetable gardens. Early maturing crops like peas and lettuce are finished. Unpicked beets and spring-planted broccoli may be bolting. To many people, the vegetable gardening season is winding to a close. But this doesn't have to be so. In most places in Oregon, you can continue to grow fresh produce well into the autumn and winter, with a little extra care. Why not pull your spent summer crops out and plant something new to extend the growing season? The Oregon State University Master Gardeners recommend succession plantings for getting the most out of your vegetable garden. Succession planting is easily accomplished west of the Cascades. East of the Cascades, you might need to protect your newly planted crops with a cloche or cold frame to keep your plants alive into the colder months. It helps to start seeds ahead of time in containers or a nursery bed to give them a head start. Or buy starts from your local garden center. You can gain several weeks by having six-inch transplants ready for vacant areas. Don't forget to recondition the soil before you plant your new crops with new compost and some fertilizer. You can plant fall cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, carrots, green onions, garlic, shallots, overwintering onions, leeks, spinach, chard, radishes, salad greens and lettuce in place of vegetables that are done for the season. Examples of summer into early fall succession plantings include: Pulling out old pea vines and planting carrot seed in their place; Yanking bolted broccoli and replacing it with a new crop of lettuce and salad greens; Harvesting the rest of those beets and sowing a crop of kale; Replacing those tomatoes in the fall with an overwintering crop of garlic or shallots; Removing your spent squash plants and putting in some crimson clover to protect the soil over the winter; Composting that old bitter lettuce, replacing them with a batch of scallions, leeks or radishes. Want to learn more about gardening into autumn and winter? Fall and Winter Vegetable Gardening in the Pacific Northwest, published by the OSU Extension Service, is a guide to help you learn how to successfully plan and grow a fall and winter garden in the Pacific Northwest. This eight-page publication can be downloaded on-line for no charge. There's information on choosing varieties, how to choose a garden location, when to plant, how to pre-sprout seeds, care for young plants, prepare for frost, extend the growing season with cold frames, cloches, row covers and hotbeds. Or order a printed paper copy by sending a request for the guide (PNW 548) and a check or money order for $1.50 per copy plus $3 shipping and handling per order payable to OSU to: Extension and Experiment Station Communications, 422 Kerr Admin. Bldg., OSU, Corvallis, OR 97331-2119. Or call your local county office of the OSU Extension Service to see if they have a copy on file. How To Protect Your Old Oaks By Peg Herring, Oregon State University Few landscapes are more inviting than rolling grassland graced with large spreading oaks. The park-like beauty of an oak savanna attracts picnickers as well as developers who may hope that the old trees will lend a touch of grace to their designs. But replacing the grassland with houses, lawns and sidewalks can have devastating effects on the trees, according to Brad Withrow-Robinson, Oregon State University Extension forester. The few large, heavy-limbed white oaks that remain in western Oregon are a remnant of a landscape that was once much more common. Many of these trees are 300 years old or older. They are hardy trees that have weathered fire and pestilence, flood and drought. But they may not survive being part of the modern suburban landscape. Homeowners should understand the natural ecosystem these big old trees represent. There is no need to rid trees of lichens that droop from branches, nor to spray oaks to kill gall-forming insects. Native oaks face new hazards in suburban life. Oregon white oaks are adapted to prolonged summer drought. Watering to maintain green lawns and lush flower beds under these trees can be excessive for oaks and invite root rot in the trees. In fact, the tree in your yard may have already suffered root damage during construction of your house. The roots of oak extend out from the trunk as much as four times the reach of the live branches. Oak roots are susceptible to damage by heavy machinery, compaction of the soil, and also suffocation if extra dirt from excavations is spread across the yard. There are two basic steps needed to take care of the oaks in your yard, says Withrow-Robinson. First, turn off the water. Don't try to grow plants with high water demands under your oaks, particularly near the trunk. Especially avoid frequent and shallow watering. You may have to choose between having healthy oaks or a green summer lawn in that part of your yard. Your local OSU Extension office can help you select drought hardy-native plants to use in the landscape beneath native oaks. Second, protect the ground and tree roots from excavation and pavement. Avoid driving vehicles and tractors under the oaks. If you have an old oak in a new subdivision or where tree roots may have been damaged by nearby construction, contact a certified arborist to evaluate and help restore the health of your tree. A majestic old oak can add much to the value of your home and the pleasure of your yard. It is well worth understanding how to keep them healthy. Year's Best Actual News Headlines We're not sure exactly what year these represent, but they are actual headlines used by newspapers in the U.S. and elsewhwere. Something Went Wrong in Jet Crash, Expert Says (No, really?) Police Begin Campaign to Run Down Jaywalkers (Now that's taking things a bit far!) Miners Refuse to Work after Death (No-good-for-nothin' lazy so-and-sos!) Juvenile Court to Try Shooting Defendant (See if that works any better than a fair trial!) War Dims Hope for Peace (I can see where it might have that effect!) If Strike Isn't Settled Quickly, It May Last Awhile (You think?!) Cold Wave Linked to Temperatures (Who would have thought!) Enfield (London) Couple Slain; Police Suspect Homicide (They may be on to something!) Red Tape Holds Up New Bridges (You mean there's something stronger than duct tape?!) New Study of Obesity Looks for Larger Test Group (Weren't they fat enough the first time?!) Astronaut Takes Blame for Gas in Spacecraft (That's what he gets for eating those beans!) Kids Make Nutritious Snacks (Definitely worthy of a headline!) And the winner is... Typhoon Rips Through Cemetery; Hundreds Dead (I certainly hope so!)

How To Harvest & Store Winter Squash To Make Them Last By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Harvest your winter squash when the "ground spot" changes from white to a cream or gold color. Then, if you cure them the right way and store them at the proper temperature and humidity, your winter squash will last through the holiday season well into winter. The Oregon State University Extension Service recommends the following steps for proper handling and storage of winter squash and pumpkins: *Check before harvesting to see that all winter squashes and pumpkins to be stored have hard rinds. *Leave the stems on acorn, butternut, turban and buttercup squash or pumpkins that have woody, angular stems. *Cut, don't break the stems off Hubbards, banana and other fleshy-stemmed squash, leaving about one to two inches of stem. These should last six months if properly stored, especially if the stem is cut off and the stem area is well healed. *Leave a three- to four-inch stem on a pumpkin without scratching or bruising them. Most types of pumpkins don't last as long in storage as winter squash. *Be gentle with your produce. Try not to drop or pile your squashes on top of one another. Injured produce spoils quickly. *Bring winter squashes and pumpkins in well before the first cold snap. *Since most squashes and pumpkins are warm season crops, they are susceptible to low temperature injury at less than 50 degrees. Squashes and pumpkins left out in the garden may become cold-injured and will decay prematurely in storage. Once the weather gets below about 50 degrees for more than a week, or there is an extended period of rain, pumpkins and squash should be brought in for storage. *Cure squashes and pumpkins after harvesting them by holding them at warm, dry temperatures for a few days until any abrasions or cuts from harvesting heal up. *Store most winter squashes and pumpkins as close to 50 degrees as possible and between 70 and 80 percent humidity for best results. Good air circulation in the storage area is also helpful. Do not store pumpkins and squash in layers. Avoid storing them near the ground or floor where the humidity is highest. A layer of straw helps keep them dry. *Avoid storing them on paper or in paper or plastic bags, as bags tend to hold in too much moisture. An attic or high garage shelf, if kept above 50 degrees, may work well. *Under proper storage conditions, acorn squashes will last from five to eight weeks, butternut squashes from two to three months and Turban and Buttercup should keep at least three months. *Keep an eye on your stored pumpkins and squash and remove any that are turning soft. Don't Let Your Grapes Go To The Dogs From University of Idaho's HomeWise This time of year, when grapevines are heavy with fruit, a grape-loving pooch that bellies up to the bar may not live to regret it. Veterinary toxicologists aren't sure exactly how many grapes or raisins will kill a dog, but they do know the number of reported cases is increasing. According to a national database at the ASPCA's Poison Control Center, 21 dogs have died from grape consumption and 74 from raisin consumption since November 2001. University of Idaho veterinary toxicologist Patricia Talcott says a few cases of grape poisoning in dogs have come through the Washington Animal Disease Diagnostic Laboratory in Pullman, Washington. Stricken with vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, depression, lethargy, decreased urination and disinterest in food, the dogs must be aggressively decontaminated and treated. Unfortunately, most have suffered such severe kidney damage within just one to several days of their grape binge that they die or must be euthanized. "The majority of cases end up fatal," says Talcott. That's not to say that eating a grape inevitably threatens a dog's life. For years, dog owners have fed their dogs grapes and raisins as treats and the dogs have lived to ripe old ages. "We don't know why so many dogs eat grapes or raisins without problems and others die," says Talcott. "No one has isolated the toxic principle or thoroughly understands the toxic dose." "Very rough math" suggests that 10-pound dogs can be poisoned by between 45 and 423 raisins and between 11 and 169 grapes, says Talcott. But those estimates&emdash;quickly sketched out by Talcott based on very limited data&emdash;aren't scientific, she says. Indeed, she's aware of no studies that have actually been funded to investigate the puzzling new problem. For dog owners, Talcott's advice is to recognize that grapes and raisins can be a risk and to monitor their pets accordingly. She also advises owners to stop offering grapes or raisins to their dogs as treats. "One or two grapes are certainly not going to present a problem, but if your pet develops a liking for them and is suddenly in a situation where he has access to unlimited amounts, he may be more likely to eat a large volume. "It may be wiser to choose an alternative treat&emdash;at least until we have more information," she says. What To Do About Rising Fertilizer Costs? Don't Skimp; Consider Management Tips From University of Idaho's Ag Knowledge Earlier this year when worries about a war in Iraq upset the nation's financial and energy markets, natural gas prices shot sky high.The natural gas price increases in turn launched a rapid rise in prices for nitrogen fertilizer. The increases led some suppliers to stop fertilizer production all together. Idaho potato producers, concerned about whether or not they should reduce the amount of nitrogen to apply, began asking University of Idaho Extension specialists for advice. The amount of nitrogen fertilizer that potatoes need is well established, thanks to cooperative research, said Bryan Hopkins, UI Extension potato cropping specialist at Idaho Falls. That knowledge provides the greatest asset for a grower contemplating the rising cost of fertilizer this spring. The best advice, said Hopkins, is to follow production recommendations closely. When fertilizer costs be gan to skyrocket, some companies shifted from fertilizer production. Growers started asking questions about how they could protect themselves against rising costs and uncertain supplies of nitrogen. Hopkins joined Extension soil fertility specialist Jason Ellsworth and agricultural economist Paul Patterson to dig up some answers quickly. They outlined a series of steps growers can take. Basically, they boiled potato production questions about nitrogen down to a series of actions that actually will benefit growers every year. Rising costs provide the incentive for growers to utilize these management practices. Actions For Growers To Take The UI team reminds growers that the first piece of the puzzle includes taking soil samples from their fields to determine residual nitrogen levels. In the crop's ove rall nutrition budget, that's a freebie. Next, Hopkins, Ellswo rth and Patterson remind growers to consider all sources of nitrogen applied to their fields. Starter or marker charges when the crop is first planted and the carriers for pesticide contribute nitrogen, too. Both sources often escape growers' accounting. Finally, Extension recommendations call for growe rs to ap p ly correct amounts of fertilizer timed according to when the plants need it. Plant tissue and soil samples taken during the season provide valuable information, and save money. Irrigation Also Matters Irrigation scheduling figures in, too. Well-timed and consistently applied irrigation can keep nitrogen where it's needed rather than washing it away or beyond the plants' root zones. "Growers can't afford to send nitrogen downstream or let it leach below where the plants can reach it," Ellsworth said. This is especially true when nitrogen prices are high. Replacing worn sprinkler nozzles could save water and fertilizer costs. The benefits of following the recommendations can improve the grower's bottom lines, most dramatically when costs rise. Proper practices can also stretch water supplies and reduce the impacts. In addition to the economic benefits, optimal fertilizer use and irrigation scheduling can lessen potential impacts on the quality of both surface and groundwater supplies. The bottom line is that nitrogen fertilization shouldn't be reduced unless prices soar much, much higher. Rather, improved nitrogen management should be the focus. Check Your Pressure Canner The pressure at which you should process foods in your home pressure canner depends on the boiling temperature of water&emdash;and that depends on the altitude at which you live. Underprocessing can lead to food spoilage and foodborne illnesses like botulism. Overprocessing can lead to too-soft and too-dark products. "Depending on your altitude, if your pressure canner is operating at even a half-point under what it should be, you will be underprocessing your foods," says Alexis Woodbury, University of Idaho Extension program assistant in Ada County. You may have checked the gauge on your dial-gauge pressure canner when you preserved foods last year, but if you dropped your pressure canner in the meantime&emdash;or even bumped it against another appliance in storage&emdash;that gauge may not be working correctly now. "All dial-gauge pressure canners should be checked annually before the canning season," says Woodbury. Call your UI Extension educator to find out where in your county you can have this done. Your Extension educator or Food Safety Advisor can also tell you the altitude to use in adjusting your gauge for your local conditions. "A lot of consumers don't have their pressure canners checked each year and don't know that they should," says Beverly Healy, UI Extension educator in Ada County. If yours is a weighted-gauge pressure canner, Healy advises you to have it checked as well. Its gasket could be worn or cracked and its safety release could be compromised. Once you know your pressure canner is in safe operating condition, read the first chapter of the Ball Blue Book or Guide 1 of the USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning (www.uga.edu/nchfp/publications) for potentially life-saving instructions on food-preservation techniques and tools. "These guides are much more than recipe books," says Healy. Either or both are for sale in some UI Extension offices. Start Soon To Fool Poinsettias Into Color And Bloom This Winter By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Late September is the time to start thinking about coaxing potted poinsettia plants back into color and bloom for December. If your poinsettias spent the summer outdoors, they should be back indoors by late September or early October, according to Ross Penhallegon, horticulture agent with the Oregon State University Extension Service. Sensitive to day length, the poinsettia needs a certain minimum amount of darkness each 24-hour period to stimulate blooming in the winter. With the shorter fall and winter days in Oregon, the poinsettia has a natural tendency to want to bloom in the fall, when there are about equal amounts of dark and light. However, if the plants are exposed to lights inside and around the home, the plants won't receive enough darkness to start blooming and could stay vegetative (not bloom) through the winter. To make a poinsettia bloom in the early winter, indoor gardeners simply need to adjust the amount of light and darkness to "fool" the plant, said Penhallegon. Start in late October or early November. Place your poinsettias in a completely dark area from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m. daily, until red color starts to develop on the top leaves or "bracts." "This can take quite a while," warned Penhallegon. "People often forget to cover the plant one or two nights. Interrupting the darkness by even a few minutes may cause failure of bloom." Bring the plant to ordinary light after the bracts show color. Poinsettia growers may have better luck if the bracts are almost fully expanded before bringing the plant out. Once the plant has large, colored bracts, the artificial light inside a house will not inhibit a poinsettia's blooms. Penhallegon offered a general time line for "coloring" the poinsettia: Late October or early November - Begin giving poinsettias long nights (darkness from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m.). Mid-November - Color should be showing in the bracts. Early December - Bract color should be almost complete. Plant can be brought out into ordinary light. December until February - During this "forced" bloom, keep the temperature between 60 and 70 degrees. Let the plant receive as much sunlight as possible during the day. Water regularly and thoroughly. Throughout the winter - Fertilize once a week with a light, complete water-soluble fertilizer. Over-fertilization will cause the leaves to drop. Keep hot or cold drafts away from the plant. The leaves may wilt if the plant is too dry, too wet or exposed to a draft. Never allow a plant to stand in water. Yellowing of foliage may indicate insufficient light, over-watering or lack of nitrogen. Generally, a slight correction of the environment will correct any of the above symptoms. Early Spring - After blooming, the plant matures. Bracts and leaves will begin to fall naturally. Discontinue fertilizing and reduce watering. Cut the plant back to six inches and store in a cool dark area. Water only enough to prevent the stem from shriveling. In the spring, the plant can once again be set outdoors or maintained as a houseplant. Water it regularly and fertilize monthly. If grown outdoors, be sure to check for insect pests and treat if needed. Next autumn, start the cycle again. Care and Handling of Poinsettias, publication FS 162, is available by mail for $1 per copy plus $3 shipping and handling. Send your request and your check or money order payable to OSU to: Publication Orders, Extension and Station Communications, OSU, 422 Kerr Administration, Corvallis, OR 97331-2119. How To Tell When Your Apples Are Ripe By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University There are hundreds of varieties of apples grown in Oregon, from old heirlooms to modern disease resistant cultivars. But often apple tree owners don't know what kind of apple tree they have, much less recognize when their specific type of apple is at its peak of perfection and ready to harvest. Here are some hints to help those with apple trees figure out what to do, from the Oregon State University Extension Service. Any given variety of apple reaches harvest maturity at about the same time each year. So keep records for each of your trees, even if you don't know the variety name. In districts with cool growing seasons such as in the mountainous regions of Oregon, the fruit usually matures later than in the warmer districts, such as in southern Oregon. Within a district, the time of maturity varies slightly from season to season. The most important factors affecting the time of maturity are variety, growing district and the type of growing season it was during the current crop year. Oregon State University horticulturists classify Oregon into tree fruit ripening districts: Early - Jackson County, Milton-Freewater, and Wasco Midseason - Lower Hood River, Malheur, Douglas County, and Josephine County Mid- to late - Willamette Valley Late - high mountains and plateaus and the coast. Early districts often begin harvest about 10 days earlier than midseason districts, and late-season districts about 10 days later. There are also other clues you can use to determine when apples are ready to pick, including color, ease of separation, fruit drop, softness and flavor. Also, location on the tree may matter. Fruits on the southern side of the tree often ripen sooner than those that get less sun. Color. Color, both outside and under the skin, is a useful indication of maturity. Apples may be yellow, red, green or combinations of these colors at harvest. When the green has almost completely given way to yellow, a yellow variety is mature. With red blush or striped apples, the area where there is no red color usually changes from green to yellowish at maturity. The newer red strains are confusing, because they are red all over long before maturity. In these, the change of flesh color (between skin and core) from greenish to white signifies maturity. The greenish color of spur-type Red Delicious may disappear only after several months of storage. Ease of separation. Unless a "stop-drop" spray has been applied, mature apples are rather easily separated from the tree. Do not pull the apple down to pick it-rather, twist it upward with a rotating motion. Fruit drop. When a few sound apples drop to the ground, the apples on the tree are nearly mature. Softness and flavor. When an apple becomes slightly softer and tastes sweet and juicy, it is mature. Some varieties, such as Delicious, become sweeter in storage. Maturity dates for many of the commonly grown apple varieties in Oregon are given in OSU Extension's publication Picking and Storing Apples and Pears, FS 147. You may order a printed copy of FS 147 by mailing your request and a check or money order for $1 per copy plus $3 shipping and handling per order, payable to OSU to: Publications Orders, EESC, 422 Kerr Admin. OSU, Corvallis, OR 97331-2119.

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