October 2006

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Clean Up And Cut Back Before Winter Sets In By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Before cold weather sets in, autumn clean up in your yard and garden will help protect your landscape from the ravages of winter. There are several tasks best initiated in October and November, recommends Ross Penhallegon, horticulturist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. Mulch your empty garden beds for the winter if they don't have a cover crop on them yet. Mulch will protect from erosion. Even flat beds experience soil erosion and heavy compaction from rainwater. Mulching will add organic matter to the soil. And it will encourage earthworm activity. Plus it will keep weed germination down. Control the weeds that have recently germinated from early fall rains. It is a much easier job now than in the spring. A hoe or hand pulling will do it. This is not a good time of year to use herbicides. The damp soil makes it easy to hoe or pull weeds, big or little. Apply slow-release nitrogen fertilizer to lawns, if needed. Use just enough to keep the lawn green, but not enough to cause need for additional mowing. Don't use quick-release fertilizer, as it will just leach away in fall rains. Don't apply fertilizer to trees, flowers or shrubs this time of year, as it may reduce their cold tolerance. Cut back late flowering perennials like asters and chrysanthemums to a few inches. Peonies can be cut back all the way to the ground. Mulch the crowns with compost to protect them from hard freezes. Prune late summer and fall flowering shrubs like butterfly bush (Buddleia) abelia, clethra and hydrangea several weeks before icy winter weather or hold off until mid-February to do your pruning. Trim back roses to knee height so winter winds won't cause damage. Keep your perennial gardens free of wind-blown plant refuse. Continue to rake your lawn, as more leaves fly. Add the leaves to your compost pile to turn them into humus. Pull up spent summer annuals like snapdragons, marigolds, zinnias, cosmos and nasturtiums that have died back. Dig and store summer flowering bulbs and tubers (if you live east of the Cascades), including dahlias, calla lilies, canna lilies, gladiolus and tuberoses. Store them in a dark, dry and cool (above freezing) place, safe from rodents. Ship Of Death From Montana State University News Service The single voyage of one ship, the Hankey, changed the history of North America, Europe, Africa and the Caribbean Islands, says MSU historian Billy Smith who is writing a book on the matter. Under contract with National Geographic Books, Smith said the Hankey carried 275 white British passengers to West Africa in 1792 to establish an anti-slavery colony. Many of the colonists died of tropical disease, however, and two dozen survivors tried to sail the Hankey home. In the process, they spread Yellow Fever to the Caribbean, Philadelphia and England. The death and devastation contributed to Napoleon Bonaparte's decision to sell the Louisiana Territory to the United States, Smith said. "Lights On Afterschool" Draws Attention To Need For After-School Programs From Kristin Johnson, University of Idaho Marceen Price says it's "so difficult" to find after-school opportunities for her elementary-age daughter in a town the size of Cascade. Fortunately, Price was able to enroll the youngster in a 4-H Afterschool program at Cascade Elementary School that offers tennis, swimming, gardening, theatre, arts, crafts and organized games. "You have great peace of mind when you have to work until 5 p.m. and you know that your child is in a healthy environment," she says. In Bonners Ferry, which has adopted a four-day school week, Summer Macdonald's 8- and 10-year-olds attend a 4-H Afterschool Academy on Fridays. "It's very hands-on, it's educational, it's nurturing," she says. "They love it." According to Maureen Toomey, University of Idaho Extension 4-H Afterschool coordinator, research shows that children who are engaged in positive activities after school make better choices and achieve greater levels of academic success than children who are not. But, according to the Afterschool Alliance, 23 percent of Gem State kindergartners through 12th graders are unsupervised after school. Only 24,425 Idaho youth-9 percent of the children and teens in that age group-participate in an organized after-school program, for which Toomey says there is far more demand than supply. On Oct. 6, the Idaho Afterschool Alliance is sponsoring a "Lights on Afterschool" event-one of many nationwide celebrations in support of after-school programs. Slated for 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. in Capitol Park, across the street from the Idaho Statehouse, it will include interactive and educational displays and refreshments and will culminate at 1:15 p.m. in the Capitol with Gov. Jim Risch's signing of a proclamation supporting after-school programs. Toomey says 3,200 Idaho youth were served during 2004-06 by 4-H Afterschool, offered in 18 counties across Idaho. Designed to combine the resources of 4-H and UI Extension with community-based organizations that provide after-school programs, 4-H Afterschool takes one of several forms: a 4-H club in an after-school setting, 4-H staff or volunteers delivering regularly scheduled projects or activities at an after-school site or UI Extension providing staff-training for community-based after-school programs. "Our curriculum is both research-based and nationally piloted and evaluated," says Toomey. "It uses an experiential learning process and its materials are designed to be hands-on, to engage the learner and to develop life-skills. They really complement the learning that takes place during the school day." In Salmon, Peggy Spradlin says her children get help with their homework at the First Presbyterian Church's 4-H Afterschool program. That's had a positive impact on their school performance, she says. "They always go to school with their homework done." "Lights on Afterschool" is the first public event sponsored by the Idaho Afterschool Alliance, of which 4-H Afterschool is a member. The IAA was formed last summer following the Idaho Afterschool Summit in March and the Governor's Round Table on Families and Youth in April. For more information, click on www.afterschoolalliance.org. Debit Or Credit? From University of Idaho's HomeWise Debit or credit? That's what the sales clerk asks when you hand him or her your card. Marilyn Bischoff, University of Idaho Extension family economics specialist, says there's often a right or wrong answer to that question. Use a debit card only for small items or for routine items like gasoline or groceries that you know you won't be returning, Bischoff says. That's because you have a lot less leverage with a debit card than a credit card. "With a debit card, there's a good chance the merchant already has your money by the time you realize something is wrong." "As long as you have your receipt, you may still have a case under Idaho's Consumer Protection Law, but pursuing that course could prove costly and time-consuming," Bischoff says. "You're pretty much stuck trying to resolve the dispute with a merchant on your own. It could go on for weeks, and when it's all said and done, you may not get your money back." According to Bischoff, credit cards are the best choice for large-ticket purchases and for merchandise bought on the Internet or by phone. "You usually get far more purchase protection with a credit card than you do with cash, check or a debit card," she says. The Fair Credit Billing Act covers purchases made by credit card-not debit card-anywhere in the world, as long as the credit card was issued in the U.S. It ensures that you don't have to pay in the event of a billing dispute that's found in your favor. Indeed, you don't owe a thing until everything is settled. Credit cards are also the preferred plastic for travel, Bischoff says. "It's difficult to travel without plastic." You'll have problems buying tickets online, for example, and credit cards often include free car-rental insurance and some travel insurance, although offers vary with each issuer. Add in airline miles, reward points and cash back, along with the interest-free loan if you pay the balance every month, and you'll find a lot of financial experts using cards for most of their purchases, Bischoff says. The key is paying off that balance every month: that's how you use plastic to your advantage. Get Rid Of Perennial Weeds From University of Idaho's HomeWise It often surprises the homeowners he talks with, but Brian McLain says fall is the absolutely best time of year to control many perennial weeds. McLain, UI Extension educator in Jefferson County, says weeds like quackgrass, Canada thistle, field bindweed and dandelions are most susceptible to herbicide treatments in the fall. That's because the season's shorter days and cooler temperatures prompt these unwelcome plants to transfer energy reserves from their leaves to their roots. "When you spray them in the fall, that same process carries the herbicides down with them, giving you a better kill," McLain says. Fall spraying won't make a dent in populations of annual weeds. Their topgrowth and roots die right along with the cold weather anyway, and their seeds have already been dispensed for sprouting next spring. But for perennial weeds that would otherwise return next year, fall herbicide treatments can thwart those plans. "You'll reduce older, established perennial weeds a lot by next spring and you'll get even better control of younger ones," says McLain. But finishing the job may take a year or two of treatments in fall and in spring. To maximize the effectiveness of your fall herbicide applications, it's important to spray as much of the weeds' surface as possible. Also, make sure that your weeds are healthy and actively growing before you zap them. Weeds under stress from drought, frost, disease or mowing tend to "shut down," inhibiting their ability to take up and translocate herbicides. Dust or dirt on leaves also reduce the bang you get for your herbicide buck. "A healthy, actively growing weed is easier to kill than a sick or stressed one," McLain says. You can increase your weeds' vulnerability to fall-applied herbicides by irrigating them for a few days before spraying and by letting your Canada thistle rosettes grow to 6 inches across and your field bindweed and quackgrass regrow to 6-18 inches and 6-8 inches, respectively, before treating them. Always identify your targeted weeds and know which herbicides to use. Some herbicides are non-selective while others will kill only broadleaf plants&emdash;not grasses. Spray on a warm, sunny day in early to mid-fall, before the first killing frost. Avoid winds that can carry herbicide drift to desirable plants that you do want to see again next spring. Minimize Dog Spots By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University If you have a female dog or immature male dog, then you may have noticed burned or discolored spots on your lawn this summer. These spots are likely due to dog urine, explained Oregon State University lawn expert Tom Cook. If your dog is a mature male, he is not likely the culprit, because usually male dogs urinate on bushes, poles and other landmarks. "Dog urine is essentially a salt solution and among other things contains urea, which is produced commercially as a popular nitrogen fertilizer," said Cook. "Since urine is a salt, it tends to attract water. "When a female dog urinates on the lawn the foliage is coated with this salt solution and it tends to draw moisture out of the grass, leaving the spot initially looking wilted and in a day or so looking brown where the grass is killed." After the initial turf injury, the grass will green up in a circle around the dead spot as the nitrogen in the urine is taken up by healthy roots. In the winter, there is plenty of moisture from rain and temperatures are colder, so it is less likely that burn will occur, he said. If you see the dog urinate on the lawn, Cook says, immediately sprinkle the area with some water to wash the fertilizer off the foliage. This will dilute it and the burned spots will not develop. "Usually you don't catch your dog at that critical moment, so you can expect burn to happen," he pointed out. Another option is to fence off an area in the lawn away from the house and put your dog in that fenced-off area whenever you let her out. This may destroy one area but will save the high-profile areas. Grain Bin Rescues From Montana State University News Service The metal grain bins you see on Montana farms and ranches can be dangerous. If someone falls into the grain, he may not be able to survive even if emergency workers are already on the scene and do everything they can, said Butch Weedon, director of MSU Extension's Fire Services Training School. One problem is that grain moves almost like water. MSU Extension recently received a grant to continue offering workshops for emergency workers who might have to deal with grain bin and silo accidents. Unique skills are required, but prevention is the key, Weedon said. "Don't let it happen to you," he said. "There's not a high success rate with that type of rescue."

Katrina Lessons From Montana State University News Service Emotions and politics surround Hurricane Katrina, but many people don't understand the science behind the storm, says David Mogk, a Montana State University geology professor. To explain natural systems and promote better decisions, Mogk, geology professor Bill Locke and former master's degree student Laurie Cantwell developed a Web site for the general public at http://serc.carleton.edu/research_education/katrina/index.html The site explains things like the Gulf Coast climate and hurricane impacts on human health. It offers a variety of teaching activities like a role-playing exercise on how to rebuild New Orleans. Mogk will present the project at the October meeting of The Geological Society of America. The project, funded by the National Science Foundation, is part of a larger digital library that Mogk has been developing for almost a decade. Ag Will Lead The Way On Greenhouse Gas Mitigation From Montana State University News A report from the Pew Center on Global Climate Change co-authored by a Montana State University economist points to an early role for agriculture in reducing the gases in the atmosphere that contribute to climate change. The report, "Agriculture's Role in Greenhouse Gas Mitigation," is co-authored by MSU's John Antle. It was made public at a teleconference Sept. 21. The report is a companion to another report released last winter on the role forests could play in reducing greenhouse gases. Both reports can be downloaded from the Pew Center's web site. These reports show that America's farms and forestlands have a major role to play in reducing the threat of climate change. Changes in agricultural practices coupled with foresting marginal agricultural lands could offset up to one fifth of current U.S. greenhouse gas emissions, while at the same time creating potential new sources of farming income. The report also estimates that the nation could reduce emissions by 10 to 25 percent by replacing fossil fuels with biofuels made from agricultural crops. Antle said he expects that in the upcoming reauthorization of agricultural policy, the U.S. will create more incentives for farmers to use soil conservation and other management practices that remove carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and store it in soil and trees. Antle said he expects this report and the science behind it will contribute to the eventual adoption of a federal policy to limit carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gas emissions. "This report represents a synthesis of findings from research carried out over the past decade about agriculture's potential contribution to mitigate the greenhouse gas emissions that cause climate change," Antle said. "It should help U.S. policy decision makers to move towards a federal policy to reduce greenhouse gas emissions." The full report is on the Pew Center's Web site is at: http://www.pewclimate.org/global-warming-in-depth/all_reports/agriculture_s_role_mitigation/index.cfm Shred Autumn Leaves By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Many kinds of leaves are an excellent addition to the compost pile. Leaves are nitrogen-poor, but rich in minerals. And some, including oak and laurel leaves, are especially slow to break down. Fallen leaves, if used in making compost, break down much more quickly if chopped into tinier pieces before being added to the heap, according to Ross Penhallegon, horticulture agent with the Oregon State University Extension Service. Here's a way you can shred leaves into smaller pieces, even if you don't have a chipper-shredder &endash; run over them with a mulching lawn mower. Then rake them up and mix them into your compost pile. If you have a lot of leaves, consider storing them after shredding in garbage bags or containers. Then occasionally layer them into your compost pile over the winter to add air to the pile. They can also be placed in the flowerbeds, where they do a great job of mulching the flower bulbs and protect them from hard winter freezes. Remember that raking, shredding or grinding up dry leaves is much easier than working with sodden matted ones. Do not add walnut leaves to a compost pile, as they contain material that affects the growth of certain other plants, warned Penhallegon. For more ideas about composting and mulching with leaves, the OSU Extension Service offers some publications. "Gardening with Composts, Mulches, and Row Covers," EC 1247, or "Backyard Composting," WAEB 1784 are both available on the OSU Extension on-line catalog. Go to: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/ and type "compost" in the search box. Or to order a printed copy, call 1-800-561-6719. "Tuxedo-Wearing" Bugs Could Join The Party At Your House This Fall From University of Idaho's HomeWise Every year, new insects find their ways into Idaho homes and gardens. Unless and until their natural enemies catch up with them, they can flare into distressing numbers. Ed Bechinski, University of Idaho Extension integrated pest management specialist, wonders if this will be the year that a new seed bug called Raglius alboacuminatus will explode in Idaho homes. Initially detected in Utah in 1999, this relatively harmless invader's first confirmation in Idaho was in Ada County in 2004. The UI's Barr Entomological Museum also includes samples collected later from Kootenai, Latah and Nez Perce counties. In Utah, populations of this Raglius seed bug rapidly surged to impressive levels&emdash;particularly in buildings adjacent to undermanaged grassy and weedy fields&emdash;before declining a few years later. According to Bechinski, it appears to be particularly partial to the seed of mulleins and mints. Bechinski calls it the "tuxedo bug" because it sports white bands across a primarily black, quarter-inch-long body. "It's a nuisance&emdash;but a handsome one," he says. "It doesn't bite, it doesn't sting, it doesn't stain, it doesn't stink. That's saying quite a bit for a bug." Like many other insects, Raglius seed bugs wander indoors in the fall. They're not particularly motivated to be inside, Bechinski says: they're simply seeking shelter in a crack or crevice. If they annoy you, you can vacuum them up or sweep them out&emdash;or, better yet, keep them from coming inside to begin with by caulking and sealing cracks and crevices around your home. Because the University of Idaho is interested in tracking the bug's progress across the state, Bechinski also asks that you bring a sample to your UI Extension office, which can forward it to the UI Barr Entomological Museum in Moscow for positive identification. Fertilizing Winter Wheat Demands Extra Attention This Year From Annette Trinity-Stevens, Montana State University News After a summer of above average temperatures and generally below average precipitation, producers should be giving extra attention to their methods and rates of fertilizer application, says Montana State University's Extension soil fertility specialist. "Urea fertilizer (46-0-0), the most common nitrogen source in Montana, can impact seed germination and emergence if the urea granules are placed too close to the seed," MSU's Clain Jones said. "That's especially true on warm and dry soils." So the best time to seed and fertilize is right after a moist cold front. Jones said potassium fertilizers also have the potential to decrease seed germination, adding that extra caution should be used on sandy soils because they are less buffered and don't bind fertilizer salts as much as finer soils do. Due to this potential problem, Extension's fertilizer guidelines recommend no more than 10 pounds of nitrogen plus potassium per acre be applied directly with the seed with six-to-seven inch row spacing. Because urea is roughly one-half nitrogen, that means that about 20 pounds of urea could be drilled directly with the seed if no potassium was used. No urea should be applied with the seed at 12 inch row spacing. Jones said higher rates can be used if drills and openers are used that spread the seed and fertilizer out, and these types of drills and openers have become much more common in recent years. For example, a study in North Dakota found that about three times as much nitrogen could be applied using a six inch opener compared to using a one inch opener when seeding spring wheat. "Producers may find that higher rates than recommended can be applied on moist soils with high clay content," Jones said. About twice as much ammonium nitrate (34-0-0) than urea can be applied with the seed without causing seed germination problems, but the availability of ammonium nitrate in the state is limited due to lack of domestic production. Nitrogen rates deserve some extra consideration at this time, he added. "In some areas this year, we had above average grain yields. That probably lowered soil nitrogen more than usual due to high plant uptake. And above average amounts of stubble will tie up more nitrogen than normal," Jones said. Producers who had above average yields should consider applying more nitrogen than normal if they do continuous cropping. On fallow fields, Jones said he has had some reports of above average soil nitrogen levels, likely due to a warm, moist spring followed by a very warm summer that probably sped up the release of nitrogen from organic matter. These soils will require less nitrogen fertilizer. Other fallow fields have had normal amounts of available nitrogen, demonstrating the importance of soil testing. "Soil testing is well worth your time and effort, especially given the unique weather we've had this season" Jones said. "Talk to your Extension agent or crop adviser for help in determining exactly how much nitrogen should be applied to your fields." For additional information on nitrogen fertilization, see MSU's Nutrient Management Modules 3 and 11, at http://landresources.montana.edu/nm or see the Extension Bulletin 161, "Fertilizer Guidelines for Montana Crops" available in Adobe Acrobat format on the MSU Web at: http://www.montana.edu/wwwpb/pubs/eb161.html Compost Is Good No Matter How You Heap It By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Autumn garden harvesting and yard clean-up generates a lot of organic material for a great compost pile. Contrary to what you see in gardening catalogs and fancy magazines, you don't need any fancy gizmos or special potions to compost your yard debris. Compost will decompose whether you have a fancy bin, container or just a pile on the ground, according to Dan Sullivan, soil scientist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. "Simple piles work well," said Sullivan. "But some people prefer containers because they look neater, or because it is easier to shield them from marauding pests or pets." A composting station can be made from old lumber or pallets, mesh fencing or cinder blocks. Some disposal companies offer composting containers free of charge, to encourage composting rather than land filling. For hot compost, minimum bin size should be at least about a half cubic yard, or about two to three feet wide, as well as high, and three feet deep to allow the pile to be big enough to retain heat, explained Linda Brewer, compost expert and research assistant for the OSU Extension Small Farms Program. Avid composters might have three bins&emdash;two for turning and one for curing compost. To construct a hot pile, Sullivan recommends combining two parts volume bulking agents such as autumn leaves, wood chips, sawdust, hay, wheat straw or corn stalks with one part energy source such as grass clippings, fruit and vegetable waste or non-woody garden trimmings. Some other hints from Sullivan and Brewer for a hot compost pile: • For faster composting, keep the size of the raw materials put into compost to no greater than an inch in diameter. • Mix the types of raw materials, rather than layering them. • A large pile holds heat better than a small pile. For hot compost, make the initial pile at least a half cubic yard in volume. • Keep the pile moist, but not wet. • Cover the pile in wet, winter weather or dry, hot summer weather. • Turn the pile once a week to aerate it, if you wish. • Compost ingredients are covered with microorganisms. There is no need to add starters or soil, although some people prefer to use them. • Add a handful of bagged nitrogen fertilizer every couple of layers if you want to help heat it up. "If you cannot get the pile to heat, it is okay," said Brewer. "The pile will still break down, but more slowly than hot compost. Weed seeds and disease organisms may not all be killed but you will still have compost eventually." To learn more about how to use compost, the OSU Extension Service offers a publication called "Improving Garden Soils with Organic Matter," (EC 1561), with 16 pages filled with information on how to improve your soil with organic matter. Find it online at: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pdf/ec/ec1561.pdf Or to order a printed copy, call 1-800-561-6719.

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