October 2004

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Fall Can Be A Good Time To Plant Hardy Ferns By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Hardy ferns can be some of the easiest perennials to care for in shadier home gardens. And autumn, especially a damp one, can be a good time to plant these leafy perennials. Ferns add lush texture to shadier flowerbeds and need a minimum of upkeep. Deer or insect pests prefer other plants. Just give them an annual dose of manure or well-rotted compost, water and some grooming, and ferns usually stay quite healthy and happy for years. Ferns are primitive, spore-producing perennials. They prefer loamy soil, which is kept evenly moist during the growing season, but can often survive the dry summers in many parts of the state. An annual application of mulch helps keep their rhizome, or underground stem cool. Some easier-to-care-for ferns include the lance-leafed sword fern, the light and airy maidenhair fern and or the lacy lady fern. Ferns can be purchased at larger nurseries or from specialty catalogs. If you want to learn more about the native ferns in Oregon, the OSU Extension Service offers an illustrated 18-page booklet, "Ferns to Know in Oregon" (EB 785), describing the natural history of many of Oregon's more common ferns. Send your request and a check or money order for 50 cents for each copy plus $3 for shipping and handling to: Publications Orders, Extension & Station Communications, 422 Kerr Administration, Corvallis, OSU, OR 97331-2119. Are Weeds Bad To The Bone? By Fabian Menalled Montana State University Extension Service Cropland Weed Specialist What makes a plant become invasive and difficult to control? Are weeds "bad to the bone," like the person George Thorogood once described in his song? For many years, weed scientists have focused their attention in controlling weeds and invasive plants with the use of herbicides and tillage. Without any doubt, the use of chemical and mechanical control practices have reduced invasive plants and weeds, intensified agricultural production and increased farm labor efficiency. However, the heavy reliance on these practices has, unfortunately, resulted in increased production costs, environmental worries and health concerns. For example, the repeated use of herbicides exerting a strong selective pressure on plants has led, worldwide, to the existence of about 290 documented cases of herbicide resistant biotypes. Also, intensive use of tillage, plowing and cultivation usually results in serious soil degradation problems. The increased potential for plant movement with the global economy, an improved appreciation of the importance of natural habitats and the growing pressure that exists on agriculture towards environmental stewardship, public health and social well-being is changing our approach to weed science. As a consequence, there is a growing interest in studying weeds and invasive plants within the context of the ecosystem they live. Three articles recently published in the most prestigious scientific journals ("Science" and the "Proceeding of the National Academy of Science") provide a fresh perspective to the study of weeds and invasive species. For many years, it has been assumed that the main reason for an introduced plant being invasive is that it got placed in a new and favorable environment where there are no insects, parasites, diseases and competitors that suppress its growth. Plant ecologists reasoned that in this new environment plants should have higher chances of reproductive success and growth. This assertion has been challenged in an article recently published in the Aug. 20 issue of "Science." The article summarizes several studies and provides a novel perspective on our understanding of weeds and invasive plants. It proposes that once an organism escapes its natural enemies, it no longer needs the defense mechanisms it had developed to be protected against them. Since these defense mechanisms require precious energy and resources, the intruder may allocate its reserves towards being more competitive. For a plant, this change in allocation strategies translates into having a larger size, a faster growth or a greater reproductive capacity. Therefore, we should blame the circumstances, not just the individuals, since the absence of regulatory mechanisms make interlopers become invasive. Although the evidences are not conclusive, the article describe several species including Chinese tallow tree and St. John's Wort, where a reduction in defensive mechanisms resulted in increased invasive nature. In a study by Baucom and Mauricion in the "Proceeding of the National Academy of Science," they address the consequences of repeated glyphosate applications on weed populations. The authors evaluated the tall morning glory, a noxious weed affecting the agricultural fields of the southeastern United States. Farmers are reporting that populations of the tall morning glory have begun to develop tolerance to glyphosate as they are able to compensate for the damaging effect of herbicide applications. The authors collected seeds from several fields that have been sprayed consistently with Roundup for eight years. After growing the seeds in a common garden and spraying the seedlings with glyphosate, they evaluated damage and mortality. Baucom and Mauricion observed that there were genetic variations for herbicide tolerance among the different tall morning glory populations. They further concluded that repeated glyphosate applications create a strong pressure to select tolerant biotypes. However, in the absence of glyphosate, tolerant genotypes produced fewer seeds than susceptible genotypes. Thus, they suggest that there is a significant cost of being tolerant, but this cost is overridden by the selection pressure imposed by glyphosate. Finally, in another study also published in the Proceeding of the National Academy of Science, Kumar and collaborators compared leaf senescence and disease tolerance in tomato plants growing under different weed management scenarios. In one case, weeds were controlled using a cover crop of hairy vetch. In the other case, weed control was achieved by a black polyethylene cover. Using several genetic tools, they assessed the mechanisms underlying beneficial aspects of legume cover crops. Specifically, the authors demonstrated that tomato plants responded to the presence of cover crops by expressing specific classes of genes. The net result of this differential gene expression was that tomato plants growing with the hairy vetch cover crop lived longer, had delayed leaf senescence and were more tolerant to diseases. These studies are excellent examples on how weed science is progressing towards an increased understanding on the mechanisms that make a plant to become a weed. Certainly the picture that is emerging is complicated. Nonetheless, an improved knowledge on weed biology and ecology will allows us to develop agricultural practices that will secure the long-term sustainability of our agricultural setting, rangelands and natural systems. Disclosure. Common chemical and trade names are used in this publication for clarity by the reader. Inclusion of a common chemical or trade name does not imply endorsement of that particular product or brand of herbicide and exclusion does not imply non-approval. To Rake Or Not To Rake From University of Idaho's HomeWise Let falling leaves lie or rake 'em up? That depends on where they fall and which plant they're falling from, says Bob Tripepi, University of Idaho horticulture professor. "You can let leaves remain in place in parts of your landscape that have bare soilor that you're not managing," says Tripepi. "But remove them from your turfgrass lawn and from borders where you're growing plants with evergreen leaves." That's because a wet mat of leaves can keep light from reaching blades of grass or evergreen groundcovers, he says. That weakens plants and potentially boostspopulations of insect pests and of disease organisms, like the ones that cause snow mold in lawns. Further, as fallen leaves break down over the winter, they release organic acids that can harm the foliage beneath them. Tripepi says it's especially important to clear leaves from any parts of your yard where you'll be walking between late fall and early spring. "Sliding on leaves that cover a lawn or sidewalk has the potential to cause serious injury," he cautions. But where the overwintering leaves are neither a hazard nor a nuisance to you oryour plants, they offer significant advantages in the landscape. "They're nature's blanket to protect the ground from sudden or hard freezes in fall and to reduce damage to small plants or herbaceous perennials from soil freezing and thawing," Tripepi says. Decaying debris also returns minerals to soil and benefits earthworms and other helpful soil critters. In addition, leaves from most species&emdash;except potentially plant-damaging black walnut and some species of oak&emdash;"work fine" in mulches, Tripepi says. They're best chopped and applied no deeper than 2 inches. You can also use intact leaves if you don't let them build up deeper than an inch; otherwise, they may keep oxygen from reaching the soil. How To Care For Newly Planted Trees Into Fall & Winter By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Have you planted any new trees in the last three years? Water, mulch and fertilizer are important ingredients for caring for younger trees. And don't forget to keep up care into fall and winter. Newly planted trees require routine and thorough watering regularly for at least three years after planting, says Stephen Fitzgerald, forestry specialist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. Soil and weather conditions, as well as the amount of competing grass around the tree, dictate how much water to give your new tree and how often. "In general, trees need the equivalent of one inch of rainfall per week from June through September," said Fitzgerald. Trees use water even during winter. Just before the ground freezes in late fall, give your tree a thorough watering. During mild winters, where temperatures are above normal and the ground thaws, give your tree periodic watering. This is particularly important for conifers, which retain their needles and use water readily during winter. Before you water, examine the soil moisture four to eight inches deep. If the soil feels dry or just slightly damp, it needs water. Well-drained, sandy soils will need more water more often than a loam or clay soil. The best way to water a newly planted tree is to place a garden hose at the base of the tree. Run a slow trickle of water for several hours or until the soil is thoroughly soaked. To help hold or direct the water around the root system, build a temporary soil berm or saucer. Avoid short, frequent watering, which promotes development of a shallow root system that is more vulnerable to drying out and other stresses. In eastern Oregon, plant ornamental and shade trees in an irrigated landscape or hand-water them regularly to ensure their survival. In drier regions of eastern Oregon, trees often need water during winter to prevent desiccation. Mulching around the base of the tree is an important part of long-term tree care. A mulch keeps the soil moist, limits weed growth, and discourages injury from lawnmowers and weed-eaters. Wood and bark chips are good mulching materials. You can use a porous landscape fabric as a weed barrier underneath the chips, but don't use plastic because it suffocates the roots. Apply a three- to six-inch layer of mulch and spread it to form a circle at least three feet away from the trunk. Keep the mulch from direct contact with the tree trunk. Some bark mulches may contain pathogens or contaminants that can harm your new tree. Maintain the mulch ring to keep grasses from competing with the tree. Generally, you don't need to stake trees, says Fitzgerald. "Young trees standing alone with their tops free to move will develop stronger, more resilient trunks than tightly staked trees," he said. However, too much wind can bend young trees and disturb the root ball, damaging roots and stressing the new tree. Staking helps trees that are top-heavy and would lean without additional support. Staking also helps protect trees from vandalism and mechanical damage. In areas of Oregon exposed to high winds, such as the coastline, trees may need additional protection. Use temporary wind barriers made of plastic or cloth, but remove them within 1 year once the tree has developed a stronger root system. To properly stake a tree, you need two wooden or metal posts. Drive them into the sides of the excavated planting hole before you backfill to prevent driving them through the root ball. Secure the tree to the stakes with broad straps or hose; don't use wire because it will girdle the bark of the tree. Guying and staking the tree will keep it secure from blowing over, but allow the trunk to move up to two inches in any direction. If staking doesn't allow some movement of the tree's trunk, the tree will not allocate any growth (wood) to the main stem and it will be unstable when you remove the stakes and guying. Remember to remove the stake and guying materials within a year. Autumn is also a good time to fertilize established trees (1 year after planting) every two or three years in the fall after the leaves have dropped. Or, fertilize in the early spring before growth begins. Apply the fertilizer directly to the soil surface and water it in. If there is thick grass sod beneath the tree, use a pipe to punch holes 12 inches deep in the sod beneath the drip line of the tree and apply the fertilizer in the holes. This helps the fertilizer reach the tree's root system. Avoid using "weed and feed" fertilizers around the root zone of your tree. Don't apply nitrogen in late summer because it can stimulate new growth that may not "harden off" or go into fall dormancy properly and will be more easily damaged by early fall frosts. Winter Blooming Flowers Can Brighten Cold Gray Days By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Autumn can be a good time to study up on and plant winter flowering shrubs, especially in the milder regions of Oregon. There are several shrubs and perennials that flower in January and February, before the "traditional" spring-flowering shrubs and bulbs such as Forsythia and daffodils appear. "Winter-flowering shrubs tend to have flowers that are long-lasting," said Neil Bell, home horticulturist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. "Many of these have the additional advantage of being sweetly-scented, the perfect antidote to the winter blahs." Even if you don't get any of these plants established this year, Bell recommends that you keep a keen eye and nose out this winter for the following winter blooming shrubs. If you like what you see and smell, consider planting some of the following winter-blooming shrubs next spring to brighten your gloomy winter landscape: Witchhazel (Hamamelis x intermedia) - These large, spreading shrubs have spidery flowers in colors ranging from red to yellow. Depending on the variety, they begin to blossom from early January to mid-February. Not all the varieties are fragrant, so if you are sure you want fragrance check that it has scented flowers before you buy. Viburnum 'Dawn' has fragrant white flowers from November through March. Wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) and winter-flowering honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima) both bloom in the winter and have very fragrant flowers. Sweetbox (Sarcococca) is a much smaller evergreen shrub which scents the air in January. These little shrubs are particularly useful because they have beautiful, shiny, evergreen leaves, tolerate shade and still flower well, and even thrive in dry soil. Bell also recommends the following winter-blooming perennial flowers: Hellebores: Also known as Lenten roses or Christmas roses, hellebores have become increasingly popular in the last few years, as the range of available flower colors has expanded from green and white to include purples and reds and even near-black. Hellebores are mostly slow growing evergreen plants that like a rich soil. They flower over a long period of time in winter. Iris unguicularis: They can be found flowering now. Depending on the plant you get, the flower color can be white, blue violet or deep purple. Kaffir lily (Schizostylis coccinea) provides a splash of pink or bright red in the winter landscape. This South African lily blossoms during mild weather from November through January, depending on the form.

Early Fall Color In Deciduous Trees May Indicate Trouble By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University If you see a maple, ash or other tree that is showing early fall color, pay attention. That tree may be in trouble, says Melodie Putnam, Oregon State University Extension plant pathologist. "Normally most trees start to put on their autumnal colors later in the year, especially after a good brisk cold snap," explained Putnam, a diagnostician at the OSU Plant Clinic. "However, yellow, red or purple leaves at this time of year on trees that are not normally highly colored (such as purple plums) are a symptom of stress." Look closely at the tree with off-color leaves. Does it have bare branches in the upper crown? Is there a wound on the stem from mechanical injury or sunscald? Is the tree in a zone where rooting is restricted? Was the tree never watered this summer? "If the answer to one or more of these questions is yes, then it is no surprise the trees are starting to turn already," said Putnam. "Root disease, recent disruption to roots from construction or grade changes, compaction from vehicular or foot traffic and self-girdling roots can also result in premature fall colors." Can anything be done? Yes, she says emphatically. "Try to determine the source of the stress and correct it," Putnam said. "Little can be done about wounds that are already present, except to prevent further wounding." Mulching around trees will remove the temptation to mow or weed right up to the trunk. The most common cause for early fall color is insufficient watering during the summer, said Putnam. "I often hear 'But it was so wet all winter,'" she said. "Yes, it was wet, but normal rainfall in the summer is thin, and during all of July and August there may not have been two inches total rainfall. Eight weeks with a full canopy of leaves and the sun bearing down, increasing evaporation, can be a long time without any supplemental water." Make sure the tree receives sufficient water during the summer. And don't forget to mark or make note of this year's trees at risk (those showing fall colors early). These should get special care next year, including summer irrigation and spring fertilization. Stop: Don't Top Those Trees By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University According to the International Society of Arboriculture, world leaders in the tree care industry, most people believe the "myth" that urban and yard trees should be "topped" to keep them from getting too big. Topping, or cutting away most of a tree's branches is one of the worst things you can do to a tree, according to Steve Fitzgerald, forestry specialist and urban tree expert with the Oregon State University Extension Service. Fitzgerald says tree topping is bad for the trees in your yard because cutting the tops out of trees weakens and exposes a large part of the tree to infections and insect problems. Once weakened, internal wood decay begins and the tree becomes more susceptible to storm damage and becomes a hazard. Topped trees often respond by sprouting prolifically, making future pruning more difficult. These sprouts are weakly attached and tend to break off in moderate to high winds. And, finally, topping is ugly and ruins the natural shape of the tree. What can a homeowner do to prevent having to remove large parts of a tree? Fitzgerald has several suggestions: • Careful planning and tree selection. Plant the right tree in the right place. Consider how big a tree might grow, how much sun or water each kind of tree might need. For instance, don't plant a redwood or Douglas-fir (trees that grow higher than 30 feet) under a power line. Don't plant dogwoods (or other plants that like partial shade) in the full sun. • When planting a new tree, don't pack the soil too firmly. Leave it loose, but with no air pockets, to promote watering and root aeration. • Don't just plant a new tree and then neglect it. Water it regularly the first year, especially through the dry season. Place mulch around it out to two feet from the trunk. Don't allow grass to grow right up to the trunk. You may need to fertilize your tree periodically with a well-balanced fertilizer. • Prune selectively, according to accepted methods. If in doubt, hire a professional arborist. • Keep from injuring tender young tree trunks. In particular, stay away from the base of trees with the weed eater and the mower. If you are unsure about what kind of tree will do well in a particular area in your yard, Fitzgerald recommends consulting your local nursery. "They have a lot of local experience and can help you match the right tree with a planting spot or location you have in mind," he said. The following publications are among those available from the OSU Extension Service on tree care. All of these are available on the WWW at: http://eesc.oregonstate.edu. Select "Publications and Videos," then "Gardening," then "Flowers, Shrubs and Trees." • Fertilizing Shade and Ornamental Trees (FS 103). • Selecting, Planting and Caring for a New Tree (EC 1438). • Southwestern Oregon Tree Selection Guide for Coos, Curry, Douglas, Jackson, and Josephine Counties (EC 1505). Or stop by your local county office of the OSU Extension Service to find out how to order a printed copy. Early Fall Days Bring Thoughts Of Fresh Cider From University of Idaho's HomeWise For a very special fall treat, try making your own small batch of apple cider. Choose ripe apples, blending different varieties like Delicious, McIntosh, Rome and Gravenstein. Cut out any spoiled areas, then wash, rinse and quarter the unpeeled apples. Run them through a kitchen food grinder, food processor or cider mill and let the crushed fruit stand for 30 minutes to an hour. Next, press the cider in a rented, purchased or home-built cider press. Apply pressure slowly and evenly. Then strain the cloudy fresh-pressed cider through a clean cloth as it drips from the press into the reservoir pan. Finally, pasteurize the cider by heating the juice to at least 160 degrees Fahrenheit, or until bubbles appear on the surface, but not hotter than 185 degrees Fahrenheit. If you don't pasteurize apple cider, you run the risk of contracting Salmonella or E. coli O157:H7 bacteria, says Beverly Healy, University of Idaho Extension educator in Ada County. "You need to pasteurize cider whether the apples fell on the ground or not." After pasteurizing, skim off any foam that may have developed and pour the hot cider into warmed and sanitized plastic containers or glass jars. Refrigerate immediately. You can store your pasteurized cider in the refrigerator for about 5 days or in the freezer for longer. When freezing, allow at least a 2-inch head space, because the cider will expand during freezing and can rupture the container. Clean Up And Cut Back In Garden Before Winter Sets In By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Before cold weather sets in, an autumn clean-up in your yard and garden will help protect your landscape from the ravages of winter. Below are tasks best done in October and November, as recommended by Ross Penhallegon, horticulturist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. Mulch your empty garden beds for the winter if they don't have a cover crop on them yet. Mulch will protect from erosion. Even flat beds experience soil erosion and compaction from rainwater. Mulching will add organic matter to the soil. And it will encourage earthworm activity. Plus it will keep weed germination down. Control the weeds that have recently germinated from early fall rains. It is a much easier job now than in the spring. A hoe or hand pulling will do it. This is not a good time of year to use herbicides. The damp soil makes it easy to hoe or pull weeds, big or little. Apply slow-release nitrogen fertilizer to lawns, if needed. Use just enough to keep the lawn green, but not enough to cause need for additional mowing. Don't use quick-release fertilizer, as it will just leach away. Don't apply fertilizer to trees, flowers or shrubs this time of year, as it may reduce their cold tolerance. Cut back late flowering perennials like asters and chrysanthemums to a few inches. Peonies can be cut back all the way to the ground. Mulch the crowns with compost to protect them from hard freezes. Prune late summer and fall flowering shrubs like butterfly bush (Buddleia) abelia, clethra and hydrangea several weeks before icy winter weather or hold off until mid-February to do your pruning. Trim back roses to knee height so winter winds won't cause damage. Keep your perennial gardens free of wind-blown plant refuse. Continue to rake your lawn, as more leaves fly. Add the leaves to your compost pile to turn them into humus. Pull up spent summer annuals like snapdragons, marigolds, zinnias, cosmos and nasturtiums that have died back. Dig and store summer flowering bulbs and tubers (if you live east of the Cascades), including dahlias, calla lilies, canna lilies, gladiolus and tuberoses. Store them in a dark, dry and cool (above freezing) place, safe from rodents. Reduce Your Blackberry Thicket To A Few Stragglers By Peg Herring, Oregon State University It could take years to eradicate a large patch of blackberries, because so many seeds remain in the soil. But with good timing and dedication property owners can reduce a sprawling blackberry thicket to a few manageable stragglers, according to Susan Aldrich-Markham, agronomist for the Yamhill County office of the Oregon State University Extension Service. On her own creek-side property, Aldrich-Markham has been trying all kinds of methods for more than 10 years and advising rural landowners what they can do to control blackberry vines. Contrary to the notion that the blackberry is as native to Oregon as rain, this hardy relative of the rose is an introduced plant by the famous Luther Burbank (1849-1926). He is honored for developing more than 200 varieties of fruits and vegetables, including 166 varieties of plums and the russet Burbank potato. But the western European blackberry that Burbank introduced in 1885 as "Himalayan giant" has become a giant problem. A single blackberry cane can produce a thicket six yards square in less than two years. In 119 years, the Himalayan blackberry's classification has changed from tasty berry to noxious weed as it has choked out native vegetation from northern California to British Columbia. According to Aldrich-Markham, several control methods can work well, as long as those preparing to battle blackberry vines are armed with information about the benefits and drawbacks of the most common methods. Listed here, they range from organic to chemical: • Digging up, or plowing under can eliminate existing plants, but it also creates an ideal seedbed for the next generation. It brings blackberry seeds close to the surface, so hundreds of new seedlings can spring up. Digging is most effective on small, highly managed plots, where sprouts can be dug up before setting deep roots. Planting a perennial, such as grass, in the area will help because it provides competition with new weed seedlings and the soil surface is no longer disturbed to bring up new seeds. Aldrich-Markham says this is the best practice for long-term control. • Goats or mechanical mowing both work by removing the leaves so the plant can't turn sunlight into food. The root eventually starves. Both goats and mowers must be brought back often, and both have the same drawback: They also mow down everything else in their path. • Round-up, and other similar glyphosate herbicides, work effectively on blackberry plants only if applied in the fall. That is the only time the plant diverts its food reserves down to its roots rather than up to its leaves and shoots. The herbicide moves in the plant with the food. • Crossbow is an excellent herbicide for killing woody brush such as blackberry plants, Scotch broom and poison oak. It is a mixture of 2, 4-D and triclopyr. The triclopyr is the most effective ingredient. • Crossbow will work on blackberry plants any time of the year, and it will not kill grass. Contrary to some popular misinformation, it is best NOT to cut down the blackberry plants first, unless the plants are too big to reach with spray equipment. Cutting down the plant reduces the leaf area, which can absorb the herbicide, so the plant may not take enough in to kill the large root. The best time to apply this chemical is in the late spring when the plant stems are fully extended. • The downside is that Crossbow is oil-based, which means when the weather is warm, the herbicide can evaporate and drift onto adjacent vegetation or into creeks. Some volatilization (evaporation) can occur at temperatures as low as 60 degrees. Take care to apply on a cool, cloudy day. Grapes and maple are particularly sensitive to Crossbow drift. If sensitive plants are growing in the area, Crossbow should only be applied in the fall when these plants are less sensitive. • The herbicide Garlon 3A is triclopyr alone in a water-based formulation. Unfortunately, this is only sold in two-gallon containers, said Aldrich-Markham. No matter if you've grubbed, chopped, or sprayed, after you've gotten rid your blackberry plants, don't forget to plant hardy alternative vegetation, so the new plants crowd or shade out any new blackberry seedlings. "You can't treat a patch of blackberry and then walk away," Aldrich-Markham said. "All the control methods can take several years at least to eradicate a large patch. Don't take a break and let the blackberries regain their strength." Silly Stuff How do crazy people go through the forest? &emdash; They take the psycho path. How do you get holy water? &emdash; You boil the hell out of it. What do fish say when they hit a concrete wall? &emdash; Damn! What do eskimos get from sitting on the ice too long? &emdash; Polaroids. What do you call a boomerang that doesn't work? &emdash; A stick. What do you call cheese that isn't yours? &emdash; Nacho cheese. What do you call santa's helpers? &emdash; Subordinate clauses. What do you call four bullfighters in quicksand? &emdash; Quatro sinko. What do you get from a pampered cow? &emdash; Spoiled milk. What do you get when you cross a snowman with a vampire? &emdash; Frostbite. What lies at the bottom of the ocean and twitches? &emdash; A nervous wreck.

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