May 2006

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Fresh Herbs Should Never Be More Than A Snip Away From University of Idaho's HomeWise You can buy them green or you can buy them ground, but there's nothing like harvesting your own home-grown herbs&emdash;fresh as the proverbial morning dew&emdash;right from your own garden plot or pot. They'll be cheaper, they'll be fresher and you'll always know exactly how they were grown, says Annya Dethman, a University of Idaho Master Gardener whose Good Scents Herb Nursery recently relocated from Meridian to Eagle. If you've grown herbs indoors, you'll prefer the results when you grow them outdoors, says Dethman. Indoor temperatures can be too warm for some herbs and too chilly for others, and today's dry, airtight homes don't supply the humidity some herbs demand. In addition, modern ultraviolet-protected windows "protect" your windowsill herbs from much of the light they need to thrive. For outdoor container herbs, Dethman recommends a soil-depth of at least 12 inches and a high-quality, soilless potting mix that contains slow-release fertilizers. Whether you're growing herbs in pots or in the ground, she suggests waiting until the soil dries to the first-knuckle's depth before watering. (In triple-digit heat, that could mean irrigating containers as often as twice a day, she cautions.) Gardeners should also watch their herbs carefully for signs of aphids and white flies; if the plants become infested, she advocates dousing them first with water and then&emdash;in the early-morning hours&emdash;following with a generous spray of insecticidal soap that you've made with 2-3 tablespoons of liquid soap per gallon of water. You'll enjoy most of your herbs at their flavor peak if you harvest them when their flowers first start to open, Dethman advises. For all but a few herbs, that's when their oils are the most deliciously concentrated. Exceptions are sage, whose flavors peaks when its buds first appear, and hyssop, lavender, rosemary and thyme, which are best in full bloom. Harvest on dry, sunny mornings, after the dew has evaporated and before the sun gets too hot. Choose the more flavorful, less bitter younger leaves. Pack the unwashed herbs loosely in resealable plastic freezer bags and toss them into your refrigerator's crisper. Herbs with tough leaves like rosemary, thyme, sage and bay will keep for two weeks or longer, but those with delicate leaves will last only a few days. Dethman stores her basil in a dish of water at room temperature&emdash;on the kitchen counter and out of direct sunlight. Because extra moisture promotes decay in most herbs, Dethman discourages washing homegrown clippings unless they're dirty or bug-infested. If they do need a good flushing under the tap, dry them thoroughly in a salad spinner or&emdash;after shaking off excess water&emdash;with paper towels. Dethman has plenty of tips for using herbs, too. For example, bruise them before sprinkling them into your food to help them release their flavor. Add more robust herbs like rosemary and sage at the beginning of the cooking process, softer-leaved herbs after you've removed your food from the heat and in-between herbs&emdash;well&emdash;in-between. And do try to restrain yourself: use your herbs sparingly, never seasoning every dish of a meal with the same herb. Protect Against Grass Tetany By Marlene Fritz, University of Idaho This spring's cool, wet weather could jeopardize the health of grazing animals as temperatures warm up and grasses begin to grow vigorously. Glenn Shewmaker, University of Idaho Extension forage specialist, advises livestock producers to begin providing supplemental minerals immediately in order to protect their cattle and sheep from grass tetany. Grass tetany-a neurological disorder initially marked by nervousness, unusual alertness and staggering-is a nutritional problem prompted by shortages of magnesium. Magnesium concentration in grass can fall below recommended levels when grasses grow too lushly. By the time many livestock owners see the disorder's most obvious symptoms-muscle spasms or convulsions in downed animals-it's often too late to save the victims. "The best approach is a preventative one," Shewmaker says. Grass tetany occurs most commonly in animals grazing seeded rangelands and irrigated pastures, particularly those planted only with grasses. Diets of strictly crested wheatgrass or winter wheat are especially "notorious," Shewmaker says. Pasture mixes that include legumes or a wide variety of forage species offer significant protection, as does supplemental hay. Lactating older cows are at highest risk. Trace-mineral mixes do not provide enough magnesium to protect against grass tetany, Shewmaker says. Because it can take several weeks for livestock to accept the supplements, he advises producers to start offering a grass-tetany salt mineral mix right away. Idaho's Guard & Reserve Families Invited To First Military Family Summer Camp By Marlene Fritz, University of Idaho The first Idaho summer camp planned specifically for all branches of Gem State Military Guard and Reserve families will be held July 7-9 at the University of Idaho's Central Idaho 4-H Camp north of Ketchum. "This is an opportunity for military families to relax and play in a supportive environment with others who have recently experienced similar life circumstances," says Sue Philley, Idaho State 4-H's coordinator of Operation: Military Kids. "We hope they'll make new friends and strengthen their family bonds in a safe, fun, inexpensive, beautiful wilderness environment." In addition to discussions of military family life, camp activities will include outdoor sports, crafts, campfire sing-alongs, skits and time- and money-management workshops. Youngsters can go on GPS scavenger hunts or learn archery or rappelling while Mom and Dad go fishing or join their children in selected activities. Philley says the discussion sessions and workshops should help participants "process the impact the global war on terrorism has had on their families, provide new coping skills and help family members build lasting, positive memories." Families who have experienced deployment, homecoming and military life or spouses who are currently on their own-with or without children-are eligible to attend. Adults and children will be housed in same-sex cabins and participate in separate and combined activities. 4-H Super Sitters and Teen Camp Counselors will monitor and lead children's activities. Registrations will be accepted on a first-come, first-served basis by June 10. Cost is $25 per person and includes two nights lodging, materials, six meals, snacks and childcare. All children must be accompanied by an adult. There is no charge for babies under one year of age. Teen counselors ages 14-18 may qualify for scholarships. Sites can be reserved for tents and recreational vehicles. The Idaho Military Family Camp is sponsored by a partnership that includes Idaho Military Family Programs, Regional Army Reserve Child & Youth Services, Operation: Military Kids, Idaho 4-H Staff and Endowment, Boulder Mountain 4-H Camp Board and regional 4-H clubs and volunteers. Among the corporate sponsors are Albertsons, Atkinson Market and Pepsi-Nagel Beverage. For more information and an application form, call Philley at (208) 454-6556 or write to her at sphilley@uidaho.edu. Buyer Beware: You Could Be Getting Just About Anything When You Order Topsoil By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University When you buy topsoil, make sure you know what you are buying. "Since there's no legal definition of 'topsoil,' you could be getting just about anything," warned John Hart, soil scientist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. "People think that topsoil is better than other soil, because it contains more organic material," he added. "But it isn't necessarily so. Topsoil is just surface soil. That's all you can claim about it. It isn't always good material for home gardens." Don't buy any loads of topsoil sight unseen, advised Hart. Go to the location where the topsoil is stored and investigate the material for sale. If an on-site inspection isn't possible, inspect the load in the truck before it is dumped into your yard. Topsoil shoppers should keep certain information in mind, Hart said. Just because something is sold as topsoil, it isn't necessarily of desirable soil texture. Topsoil can range from clayey to sandy material. The best texture for gardening is loam, or sandy loam, with fairly equal proportions by feel of sand, silt and clay. To estimate the amount of sand or clay in batch of topsoil, take along a small container of water. Mix some of the soil you're considering buying with water. Make a mixture with bread dough consistency. If the soil forms a sticky mass, there's too much clay. If it feels gritty and watery, there's too much sand. Good garden loam should not feel very sticky or sandy. Take a handful of damp topsoil and squeeze it in your fist. If it is loam, it will form a ball that easily breaks apart. If you do not find exactly the right soil, modify it with compost. Addition of organic material will increase its water holding capacity, make the soil easier to work up for planting and make it more hospitable to plant roots. Topsoil is usually sold by volume, in cubic yard units. When ordering or buying topsoil a good rule of thumb is to remember that one cubic yard of topsoil will cover about 50 square feet of garden to a depth of about four to six inches. No Yard Space? Grow A Container Vegetable Garden By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Don't let lack of yard space keep you from vegetable gardening this spring and summer. "Many vegetables grow well in containers located on a patio, porch, balcony or windowsill," said Ross Penhallegon, Oregon State University Extension horticulturist. Limited garden space precludes being able to grow some of the larger vegetables. For instance, growing corn on a balcony may not be practical. But a wide variety of crops can be planted, including lettuce, herbs, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, carrots, beans, squash, radishes, strawberries, watermelon, chard and spinach. There are some dwarf and miniature varieties, such as "Thumbelina" carrots or other "baby" vegetables that work particularly well in small confines. Vine crops can be put in hanging baskets or grown in oak barrels or large pots and trained vertically on trellises, stakes or railings. The amount of sunlight available will affect your choice of crops. Root and leaf crops (beets, turnips, lettuce, cabbage, mustard greens) can tolerate light shade. But vegetables grown for their fruits, including tomatoes, green beans and peppers must have from six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day. The more sun the better, says Penhallegon. Almost any type of container can be used, from bushel baskets, metal drums, and gallon cans to plastic tubs, wooden boxes and well-rinsed cut-off bleach jugs. Ten-inch pots are good for green onions, parsley and herbs. For plants with larger root systems, such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplant, five-gallon containers are best. "No matter what container type is used, adequate drainage is a must," said Penhallegon. Drill drain holes along the side about one-half inch from the bottom and make sure the soil drains well. It also helps to elevate the pot with bricks or boards, off the surface of your patio or pot saucer. As in bigger gardens, container grown vegetables can be grown from seed, or they can be planted as transplants. Good soil really helps. Use a packaged potting soil or composted soil available at local garden centers. These purchased potting soils make for excellent container gardening because they are lightweight, sterile and drain well. Do not buy "topsoil" for pots - it can be heavy and poor draining. Nor buy "planting" mix for the same reason. Plant vegetable seeds according to the instructions on the seed package. After planting, gently water the soil, taking care not to wash out the seeds. Vegetables grown in containers need regular fertilization. A soluble, all-purpose fertilizer that can be mixed in water is the easiest type to use with container plants. Fertilize every three to four days with a solution that is half the strength of the recommended mixing ratio. Dry fertilizers sprinkled on top of the soil offer a second-best alternative. If you use them, fertilize every three weeks. Organic materials including compost, animal manures, blood meal or rock phosphate and greensand can be used for fertilizer as well. Religious regular watering is also essential. The soil in containers can dry out quickly, especially on a concrete patio in full sun. Daily watering is not unusual, but don't let the soil become soggy or have water standing on top of it. Water when the soil feels dry and until it runs out the drain holes. After spring and early summer crops are harvested, the containers can be replanted with late summer and fall vegetables. For more information on container gardening and other gardening basics, view OSU Extension's publication, "Growing Your Own-A Practical Guide to Gardening in Oregon" on the Web at: http://eesc.oregonstate.edu/agcomwebfile/edmat/html/GROW/GROW.html To order a printed copy, call 1-800-561-6719. Hunt Resumes For The Brown Garden Snail From University of Idaho's HomeWise Idaho gardeners, get ready to stop a snail in its slimy tracks. It's Year 2 since the newcomer with the plain-Jane name&emdash;the brown garden snail&emdash;was confirmed in Idaho, and entomologist Ben Simko of the Idaho State Department of Agriculture says it's "still within the realm of possibility" that the destructive intruder can be eliminated from the state. At the very least, Simko says observant gardeners can help prevent its spread. Around the state, University of Idaho Extension Master Gardeners have been advised to be on the lookout for the unusually large snail with its unusually round shell. Brown garden snails start out as small as BBs but quickly reach 1.5 inches in diameter. Although they leave less profuse mucous trails than slugs do, brown garden snails cause virtually identical damage: irregular holes with smooth edges in leaves, flowers and fruit of plants ranging from groundcovers to vegetables to trees. Since last August, Simko has verified the brown garden snail's presence in 22 Idaho locations, including Boise, Eagle, Hagerman and Lewiston. He suspects it entered the Gem State on infested nursery plants from western Oregon, western Washington and California&emdash;where it has flourished for years&emdash;and has asked Idaho nurseries that purchase stock from out-of-state suppliers to increase their vigilance. In California, the big snail is taking a big toll: up to $10 million a year in tattered plants. The brown garden snail is susceptible to the same controls as other slugs and snails. Gardeners can bait them with beer, toss them into soapy water and prompt their starvation with iron phosphate. Metaldehyde poisons&emdash;potentially fatal to dogs, cats and other nontarget critters&emdash;will also kill snails. But before you dispatch a suspect snail, get a positive identification through your UI Extension office or directly from Darcy Heckathorne (332-8620) at the Idaho State Department of Agriculture. "We're trying to put the dots on the map," says Simko. Why Eat An Apple? From The Topic Tickler, Chelan-Douglas County WSU Extension A recent Canadian government study says apples are teeming with antioxidents, the peel more so than any other part of the apple. The antioxidents in apples are mostly plant chemicals and are thought to play a role in preventing cancer. Apples also have other virtues. Their pectin, which is soluble fiber, helps lower blood cholesterol. So, add apples to your grocery basket. Look for the new pre-packaged apple slices&emdash;they are a great ready-to-eat snack. 100 Years Ago Only eight percent of U.S. homes had a telephone. A three minute call from Denver to New York City cost $11.00. There were only 8,000 cars in the U.S. and only 144 miles of paved road. The maximum speed limit in most cities wat 10 mph. Sugar cost four cents a pound. Eggs were fourteen cents a dozen. Coffee was fifteen cents a pound. Average wage was twenty-two cents per hour.

Invasive Pigs Moving Into Oregon By Aimee Brown, Oregon State University Feral pigs, which are responsible for an estimated $800 million in annual damages to agriculture commodities nationwide, are rapidly expanding their range across Oregon, according to a recent risk assessment conducted by Oregon State University scientists. Also called wild boars or wild swine, omnivorous feral pigs vary in appearance, but most have hairy coats, thick necks and shoulders and wedge-shaped heads suitable for digging and rooting. "These animals have the capability to create incredible damage across a large area," said Bruce Coblentz, a fisheries and wildlife scientist in OSU's College of Agricultural Sciences. "One pig on one golf course in one night can cause $50,000 to $60,000 in damages. They are extreme generalists with a capacity for tremendous growth." The invasive pigs have been recorded in locations throughout southern and central Oregon, and their distribution may continue to spread as global climate change results in warmer temperatures farther north, said Coblentz, who authored the assessment with researcher Cassie Bouska. Feral pigs are most heavily concentrated in Florida, Hawaii, Texas and California. Despite not being native to the United States, their nationwide population is estimated at more than 4 million. Feral pigs are often introduced into new areas by humans who plan to return and hunt them at a later time, Coblentz said, adding that "the majority of feral pigs in Oregon have been kicked out of the back of a pickup truck." This manner of scattered distribution could explain the animals' recent appearance in central Oregon around the towns of Prineville and Madras, areas Coblentz said were not traditionally thought of as habitable for the pigs. "They tend to be most successful in warmer, wetter areas and are often found in riparian zones," he said. "It used to be a population would die off due to freezing temperatures, but we're not having winters like we used to, and we're seeing the results in range expansion." Feral pigs have been reported in nine Oregon counties: Coos, Curry, Josephine, Jackson, Klamath, Wasco, Jefferson, Crook and Wheeler. According to the Pest Risk Assessment for Feral Pigs in Oregon, which was conducted in accordance with USDA Forest Service guidelines, the animals &endash; though currently in isolated populations &endash; could feasibly inhabit any area where food and water are easily available and the habitat provides suitable cover. In the drier areas of the state, populations could exist successfully in riparian areas, and near golf courses, irrigated fields and pastures. "They are pretty wary beasts," Coblentz said, adding that the Oregon populations consist of feral domestic pigs and feral pig-wild boar hybrids. "Just because they've never been sighted in a region, does not mean they are not living there, competing with native species for resources and habitat. They will aggressively defend food sources, and because of this they pose a significant problem for deer and other wildlife." Part of the reason that feral pigs are such a risk to the state's economy and environment is because of their reproductive capabilities. Sows reach sexual maturity as early as four months and can produce two litters averaging five young per year. Unchecked, the pigs can spread until they've populated all available areas, said Coblentz, who is a professor in OSU's Department of Fisheries and Wildlife. "Think of the situation as a lit stick of dynamite," he said. "If you throw it on a landscape one of two things will happen; the fuse will go out, or the stick will explode. Right now an invasion is occurring, but you don't know it because you can't see it." Oregon agriculture brings in revenues of more than $3.6 billion each year. Many of the state's crops grow in areas and mediums highly attractive to feral pigs, and could be susceptible to disturbance by the invasive animals. Feral pig activity and rooting near roadways and buildings can damage structural integrity and increase maintenance costs. Each year the United States spends less than $1 million a year in control costs for feral pigs. According to the risk assessment, it is likely that the current feral pig populations in Oregon could be removed with reasonable costs and efforts. However, equally probable is the possibility for the population to grow at such a rate that control methods would be too costly to attempt and would not offer long-term success. Feral pigs are subject to predation by cougars, bears, coyotes and eagles, however they still manage to thrive when introduced to new areas. Coblentz recommends that anyone who sees a feral pig, or sees evidence of rooting and wallowing behavior contact their local division of fish and wildlife immediately. Predictions Could Help Target Areas Where Weeds Would Invade By Carol Flaherty Montana State University News Montana State University researchers have created the first version of a system that can predict locations and environments for weed invasions, potentially saving government agencies time and money by better directing weed control efforts to more susceptible sites. For about 10 years, land managers familiar with geographic information systems, or GIS, have been able to map noxious weeds, allowing them to send people back to pinpointed sites for weed control. But mapping along Montana's 12,000 miles of roads, or getting into the back country, still requires more resources than local, state and federal agencies have. So Lisa Rew and Bruce Maxwell of MSU's Department of Land Resources and Environmental Sciences decided to develop a system to predict weed invasions based on suitability of the particular site. They began by developing the system for Yellowstone National Park's northern elk winter range. The area, at 337,538 acres, was too large for a comprehensive inventory, so the researchers designed a stratified-random sampling survey technique to obtain a representative estimate. They and their students then sampled the northern range between June and August in 2001 through 2003. The researchers began by accepting the assumption that human disturbances, in the form of rights-of-way, increased the likelihood of invading species becoming established and therefore, started their sampling on rights-of-way. However, they checked that assumption by sampling away from the roads and trails. In addition, they added information "layers" to the GIS system that included environmental data from elevation maps and vegetative reflectance data from satellite images to see if they could fine-tune their predictions for a number of non-native species including Canada thistle, dalmation toadflax and timothy grass. Timothy, though not undesirable by ranching standards, is not native to Yellowstone National Park, Maxwell said. Existing National Park Service policy directs park managers to ensure that exotic (non-native) plants that invade park lands are inventoried and to limit the potential damage these plants could cause. Canada thistle made up about 5 percent of their sample, dalmation toadflax 3 percent and timothy 23 percent within the surveyed area; and the notorious spotted knapweed less than 1 percent. To establish the accuracy of the predictions, the researchers generated probability of occurrence maps for each target species, and checked the accuracy of their predictions using data excluded from the predictive model. Their technique accurately predicted the locations in which target species would be more likely to establish and survive. The same maps provide information about the sites most likely to be invaded in the future Accurate probability maps of multiple species will let land managers prioritize where to spend their limited resources in managing wild land and rangeland areas. Mary Hektner, vegetative section chief of the Yellowstone Center for Resources in the park, said the park uses both chemical and mechanical invasive plant control and takes preventative actions, such as having equipment steam-cleaned before it comes into the park and requiring weed-free hay and gravel. While the park hasn't tested Rew and Maxwell's predictions yet, Hektner said their work will give Yellowstone a heads-up on where to look beyond where they are already working on invasive species. "One of the things we don't know is what kind of effect weeds have on our native plant communities. We know some weeds don't do much and others are community-changing species. Based on this predictive work, we would be interested in monitoring sites to learn how invading species affect the native plant communities." Rew and Maxwell described the technique and their results in recent issues of the journals "Weed Science" and "Biological Invasions." The model still needs fine-tuning, they said. They said they need to develop data for many weeds, evaluate the model's performance in different but ecologically similar areas and for species that are rare in an area. "But we've shown that we can help land managers decide where to send crews to search for non-native species populations," Rew said. "The maps highlight areas where a few populations should be monitored to determine in which environments the populations increase most rapidly," Maxwell said. "Then populations in those environments should be prioritized for management." This project was funded by the Yellowstone Inventory and Monitoring program, under the supervision of Cathie Jean. Contact: Lisa Rew, lrew@montana.edu or (406) 994-7966, Bruce Maxwell bmax@montana.edu or (406) 994-5717, Mary Hektner (307) 344-2151 Got Lawn Moss? A Self-Help Guide To The Causes And Cures By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Moss can grow on your lawn, whether you live on the wet or dry side of the mountains. To better assess why your lawn has moss, Tom Cook, Oregon State University's lawn expert, has come up with a set of questions you can ask yourself about your lawn care habits. Does your lawn have a poor diet? When your grass stands are thin and malnourished, moss tends to grow. Your lawn most likely lacks fertilizer. When grass isn't thick and healthy, moss has the best chance to take hold. "Properly timed nitrogen fertilizer applications will increase turf density, vigor, and competitiveness," said Cook. "Late fall and spring are important times to fertilize with a high nitrogen fertilizer to minimize moss growth." Does your lawn get enough sun? Too much shade could be contributing to a moss problem. "Grasses grow poorly in dense shade because of low light and increased disease activity," explained Cook. "Shady lawns usually have more moss than lawns in full sun. Thinning out trees by selective pruning or removing trees completely may reduce moss encroachment." You also can plant shade-tolerant grass species. In relatively dry shade, such as that in central and eastern Oregon, the fine fescues perform well. In wet, shady sites, roughstalk bluegrass and bentgrass persist better than other grasses. Or you might want to consider eliminating a patch of unhealthy shady mossy lawn altogether. Think about planting a flowering bed or shrub island full of shade-loving species of perennials. Is your lawn in a naturally soggy area? Moss thrives in damp wet soils. "Wet soils caused by poor drainage or excessive irrigation provide a perfect environment for germination and growth of moss," said Cook. Poor drainage sometimes can be improved by promoting water infiltration by lawn aeration or thatch removal, practices that also improve turfgrass vigor and competitiveness. Often drainage can be improved only by changing grading or installing subsurface drain tubing to lower the water table. Do you water your lawn too much? Sometimes wet soils often are due to excess irrigation. Avoid nightly watering, particularly in fall or early spring when moss growth is vigorous. Infrequent, deeper watering is better. Is your lawn "injured" by the activities of children, insect pests, pets or vehicles? Baseball, bikes, dogs, and crane fly larvae can all physically injure lawns. Thin, injury-caused turf can contribute to moss encroachment. Are you stingy with the water in the summer? Many people are stingy with summer grass watering, with the knowledge that the rain will return in the fall. Too little water can encourage moss as well as too much water, said Cook. Lawns that aren't irrigated turn brown and thin out during summer. When fall rains do return, moss may grow in faster than the grass. All in all, the best way to discourage moss in lawns is to encourage good growing conditions for your grass. Has there always been a heavy infestation of moss in your lawn? Cook recommends dethatching your lawn sometime between April and early June with a mechanical device called a "dethatcher." These gas-powered machines, like a lawn mower with vertical teeth, are available at rental outlets. Dethatching will remove about 75 percent of the moss. After dethatching, fertilize the lawn with a turf fertilizer at a rate of two pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet to stimulate growth of grass, preferably in the spring from April to early June. Then follow up in the fall with more fertilizer to reduce the problem for the following spring. There are chemical methods to control moss as well. Iron compounds are highly effective and work quickly, said Cook. The iron stimulates a "green-up" of turf. There are complete fertilizers with iron, which efficiently remove moss while stimulating grass growth. A drawback to iron is that it stains concrete and many other surfaces, so it must be applied carefully. Follow label instructions carefully. "The key to effective control with iron compounds is thorough coverage of moss foliage," said Cook. "Liquid materials are very effective and give almost instant results. Dusty fertilizer-plus-iron products are more effective than clean granular products because they provide better coverage of the moss." Another newer category of moss-control products are the "cryptocidal" (moss killing) soaps. These act as contact killers and tend to bleach moss to a whitish yellow, rather than the dark brown color of moss treated with iron. These soaps are safe on sidewalks and other structures. Follow label instructions. Avoid Horticultural Heartache Choose Disease-Resistant Varieties By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University When choosing plants for your yard and veggie garden, you'll save yourself a lot of heartache, as well as money, if you choose disease-resistant varieties, advises Jay Pscheidt, plant pathologist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. "Planting resistant varieties is the easiest means of disease control," explained Pscheidt. "Roses, fruit trees and many vegetables such as tomatoes are susceptible to variety of diseases caused by fungi and viruses. Try and choose those marked 'disease-resistant' or 'certified virus-free' whenever possible." For example, tomato seed packages and start tags often are marked with the letters V, N, T or F. V signifies resistance to Verticillium, a fungal disease causing premature wilt and reduced production. N stands for a nematode-resistant variety. Nematodes are small, wormlike pests that puncture root cells. T indicates resistance to tobacco mosaic virus, which causes mottled leaves. An F means the variety is resistant to Fusarium, a fungal disease that also causes wilt. Tomato varieties known to be resistant to all of these diseases include Carmen, Carnival, Casino Royal, Cavalier, Celebrity, First Lady, Milagro and President. Other vegetables have disease resistant or disease tolerant varieties as well, including green beans, peas, cucumbers, peppers and spinach. The fungal diseases rust, powdery mildew and blackspot are common in rose gardens in the Pacific Northwest. Roses known to be resistant to these diseases include the hybrid teas Electron, Keepsake and Las Vegas; the floribundas Europeana, Liverpool Echo and Play Girl; and climbers Dortmund and Dublin Bay. Apples are susceptible to a number of diseases including apple scab, fire blight and powdery mildew. Varieties that grow well, have shown good scab resistance and are of good quality include Akane (Tokyo Rose), Chehalis, Liberty, Prima and Tydeman Red. Crab apples have the same problems, so Pscheidt recommends planting disease-resistant crab apple cultivars David, Indian Summer, Red Jewel or White Angel. Consult catalogs and local nurseries for other disease-resistant varieties as well, as new ones come out each year and some of the old ones get discontinued. For more information about disease resistance call the Master Gardener Program at your local county office of the OSU Extension Service.

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