May 2004

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Late Spring Is Best Time To Plant Brussels Sprouts By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Late May into the first half of July is the perfect time to plant Brussels sprouts for fall harvest and overwintering. A cousin to cabbage, Brussels sprouts take from three to six months to grow and mature from seed, depending on the variety. Brussels sprouts can provide a continuous supply of nutritious vegetables from mid-fall to late winter in milder winter areas of western Oregon. Many home gardeners say that home grown Brussels sprouts have a sweeter and nuttier flavor and are much less bitter than store-bought varieties. These tiny cabbage-like heads are rich in vitamin C, beta-carotene and cancer inhibiting agents. Brussels sprouts can be started from seed, directly in the ground, or planted from transplants through early July. Ultimately, each plant needs at least a 24 by 24 inch area in which to grow. Heavy feeders, Brussels sprouts should be fertilized at least twice during their growing season. Fertilize them when they are first planted with a high phosphorus fertilizer. After several weeks, apply another dose of fertilizer that is rich in nitrogen. Liquid fish, blood meal or a commercial fertilizer high in nitrogen works well. Early varieties, including Prince Marvel F1, Jade Cross E and Lunet F1 mature in about 80 to 125 days from seed and are ready to eat in the fall and early winter. Gardeners in western Oregon might want to try some of the late varieties, which can take from 125 to 200 days to mature and can be harvested from December to April, depending on climate. To encourage the lateral buds to develop earlier, OSU vegetable breeder Jim Myers recommends topping the plant (removing the apical bud) once the plant has reached its full height and the lateral buds have begun to expand. In colder climates east of the Cascades, Brussels sprout plants should be pulled from the ground before the temperature drops below 10 degrees in the late fall, and be stored in the basement with roots buried in a box of damp sand. The OSU Vegetable Research Farm and Extension Service recommend the following varieties of Brussels sprouts as performing well in Oregon: Jade Cross E, Oliver, Tasty Nuggets and Prince Marvel. For winter gardening in western Oregon, the OSU Master Gardener handbook recommends that Brussels sprouts be in the ground out as transplants by July 10-15 for success. Environmentally Soft Insecticides UI Entomologist Recommends Five Environmentally Soft Insecticides From University of Idaho's HomeWise Idaho gardeners who decide to take a softer approach to managing their leaf-chewing and sap-sucking insects this year should consider five pest-killing products that are least likely to endanger people, pets and beneficial organisms. Ed Bechinski, University of Idaho Extension integrated pest management specialist, likes using Bacillus thuringiensis against exposed, leaf-feeding caterpillars. Applied to both the upper and lower leaves of plants being attacked, the microbial toxin Bt annihilates target pests that consume a lethal dose. Because it breaks down in the environment after a day or two, Bt is not likely to harm many non-target caterpillars, Bechinski says. The botanical extract neem&emdash;a hormone produced by Asia's and Africa's neem trees&emdash;kills at least 300 species of aphids, beetles, caterpillars, leafhoppers, mealybugs, scales, thrips and more. It interferes with the normal growth and development of insects that eat treated foliage, prompting them&emdash;for example&emdash;to shed their skins at the wrong time. "It is very safe for you and me and for nontarget beneficials," says Bechinski. Then there are the refined horticultural oils called "summer oils." These coat an insect's body, plugging up its breathing pores. "They'll kill any insect they come in contact with, but they're only effective until they dry," he says. Consequently, their most vulnerable targets are relatively immobile insects like aphids, caterpillars and the nymphs of squash bugs. "More mobile insects will probably escape the oil." Because horticultural oils can damage some plants, check the label or test them first on a plant&emdash;or plant part&emdash;you can spare. Fourth, consider insecticidal soaps. They penetrate such soft-bodied insects as aphids. While soaps don't discriminate between beneficials and pests with spongy, vulnerable bodies, they only dispatch insects they have drenched. "They leave pests deader than a doornail and they have no residual effect once they've dried," Bechinski says. For more elusive flying insects, you might try pyrethrins&emdash;broad-spectrum nerve toxins produced by some chrysanthemums. The ecological friendliness of these products lies in how briskly they break down in sunlight: half of what you apply is gone within four hours and half of what's left is gone in another four, and so forth. "They won't last long in sunlight and that's what makes them safe," says Bechinski. He recommends using pyrethrins when you want to knock back a mushrooming pest infestation to a size that's manageable by beneficials. "If you were going to make a release of lady beetles and your aphid population was already out of control, you could reduce your aphid numbers with a fast-acting pyrethrin and then release your biocontrol agents the next day." Unfortunately, least-toxic insecticides aren't always the best choice because&emdash;against many pests&emdash;they aren't a choice at all. "Depending on the pest that you're trying to control, you may have to use a conventional product," Bechinski says. "It's a two-edged sword: the least-toxics are so specific that you may not be able to kill the particular pest that you have." READERS: Do you have a question about your home, yard or garden?  Send it to HomeWise, University of Idaho, Educational Communications, Moscow, ID 83844-2332 or e-mail it to homewise@uidaho.edu. Mention of proprietary products or firms does not constitute endorsement by University of Idaho Extension or imply approval to the exclusion of other suitable products or firms. At What Stage Is Moisture Most Critical For Garden Vegetables? By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University There are certain times in a vegetable plant's life when moisture is most critical for the formation of the most robust, best quality produce, according to Ross Penhallegon, horticulturist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. Make sure to give these vegetable plants enough water, especially at the stages listed: Beans&emdash;during flowering and pod development; Broccoli, Cabbage and other cole crops&emdash;during head formation and enlargement; Carrots and other taproot vegetables&emdash;from germination until harvest; Corn&emdash;from tassel to silk and ear filling; Cucumbers&emdash;during flowering and fruit development; Eggplants&emdash;from blossom set through fruit enlargement; Lettuce and other leafy vegetables&emdash;from germination until harvest; Onions&emdash;during bulb formation; Peas&emdash;during flowering and pod filling; Peppers&emdash;from blossom set through fruit enlargement; Potatoes&emdash;from blossom time until harvest; Tomatoes&emdash;from blossom set through fruit enlargement. Remove Small Fruits For Higher Quality Apples By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University To get larger, higher quality apples, home orchardists will need to remove some of their immature apples at the end of May or in early June. Getting rid of some of the fruits helps to avoid tree damage from heavy fruit load later in the summer, explained Anita Azarenko, research and Extension pomologist and interim chair of the Department of Horticulture at Oregon State University. Fruit removal also helps to prevent the tree from going into a "biennial" bearing pattern where one year the tree produces a heavy crop and the next year no crop. Apples naturally shed small, cherry-sized fruit in late May and early June. But this natural thinning often is not enough. For larger and higher quality fruit, more young apples need to be removed by hand. "Remove the smaller apples and those damaged by disease or insects in each cluster," recommended Azarenko. "Leave only one fruit in each cluster and thin the remaining fruit to about six inches apart. This will reduce the crop load, avoid breaking limbs and reduce the chance of biennial bearing." For more information about "Training and Pruning Your Home Orchard," PNW 400, visit our on-line catalog. Our publications and video catalog at: http://eesc.oregonstate.edu/agcomwebfile/edmat shows which publications are available on the Web and which can be ordered as printed publications. So Many Cabbages, So Little Time By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University The cabbages most commonly sold in grocery stores are the green cabbages, including Danish, domestic and pointed varieties. But, if you are a home gardener, there's so much more diversity available. There are hundreds of varieties of cabbage seed available from garden stores and seed catalogs, including Savoy, many kinds of Chinese, storage, red and purple varieties. Horticulturalists classify cabbages by their optimal time of planting and maturity, either as early, mid-season or late season types. "Early" cabbages are fast-growing, earlier maturing and smaller than later season varieties. Plant early varieties from seed in the late winter to spring. Start transplants six weeks before planting outside or plant seeds directly outdoors after all danger of frost is past or soil temperature exceeds 50 degrees. "Mid-season" cabbages are larger, later to mature and must be well established before summer heat sets in. It is best to plant these a little later than early varieties, in the mid-spring. "Late" types, also called overwintering or storage varieties should be planted from late spring through mid-summer and will head up in late fall and early winter to spring for harvest in the late fall, winter and spring in the milder regions of Oregon. Transplants can be purchased from your local nursery or garden store. Always select cabbage plants with stem diameters smaller than a pencil to reduce the risk of your cabbage plants bolting or setting flowers rather than a head. Set transplants outside during the day for a week before transplanting them out in the garden to harden or acclimatize them to outdoor conditions. Chinese cabbage, including Bok Choy and Napa cabbage, bolt with excessive exposure to cool weather in early spring and lengthening days, and is best planted in early summer for fall harvest. Bok Choy is an open Chinese cabbage with white or green celery-like stalks and shiny dark green leaves. Napa forms an elongated head, is pale green, with mild flavored delicately crinkled leaves. Savoy cabbage is stronger tasting, has a looser head than most green cabbages and has wrinkly leaves with ruffled edges. The Oregon State University Extension Service recommends the following varieties because they have proven themselves as performers in Oregon: EARLY: Dynamo, Parel, Primax, Arrowhead, Capricorn, Farao. MID-SEASON: Golden Acre, Bravo, Discovery, Charmant. LATE FALL, WINTER: Danish Ballhead, Storage Hybrid #4, Blue Thunder. RED: Ruby Perfection, Regal Red, Red Acre. SAVOY: Melissa, Savoy Express, Savoy Ace. CHINESE: Michihili, Monument, China Express, China Flash, (Pak choi) Mei Qing Choy, Joi Choi. Cabbage thrives in a sunny, well-drained, loam soil heavily amended with organic matter. They need adequate and persistent moisture through the growing season. Keep soil pH above 6.8 and don't grow members of the cabbage family in the same place in the garden year after year to avoid club root and other damaging fungal disease. Space larger varieties about 18 to 24 inches apart for optimal growth. Smaller, early varieties can be planted closer together, about 15-18 inches apart. Hot caps or row covers help early cabbages thrive. When your cabbage forms heads, be careful not to over water them after a dry spell, as the heads may split. What Do The Numbers On Fertilizer Packages Mean? By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University When you see numbers following a fertilizer name, they correspond to the percentage of those elements &endash; N, P and K &endash; nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. By law, manufacturers must list on their fertilizer products the percentage, by weight, of the essential plant nutrients in that order, explained Ross Penhallegon, Oregon State University horticulturist. Sometimes there is a fourth number, representing the amount of sulfur in the mix. For example, a fertilizer labeled as 5-10-5, must contain not less than 5 percent nitrogen, 10 percent phosphorus and 5 percent potassium. The fertilizer 16-16-16 contains 16 percent each of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. A fertilizer formulation does not necessarily contain all four nutrients. For instance, a 21-0-0-24 fertilizer contains 21 percent nitrogen, no phosphorus or potassium and 24 percent sulfur. This fertilizer would be useful for soils needing only nitrogen or nitrogen and sulfur, applied to help acidify soil. The numbers on fertilizer products can help home gardeners determine which fertilizer formulation is the better buy, as well. For example, in a nitrogen fertilizer, a product containing 5 percent nitrogen should not be priced more than one-quarter the cost of a product containing 21 percent nitrogen. For more information on "Fertilizing Your Garden," EC 1503, visit our on-line catalog. Our publications and video catalog at: http://eesc.oregonstate.edu/agcomwebfile/edmat shows which publications are available on the Web and which can be ordered as printed publications. Spring Good Time To Fertilize Young Trees And Shrubs By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Trees and shrubs often are forgotten when it comes time to fertilize the yard in the spring. Young trees, especially those with a trunk diameter of less than six inches, can benefit from regular applications of fertilizer. When young trees receive nitrogen fertilizer, they grow faster, develop a denser canopy and stay green longer into the fall. It might not be necessary to fertilize large, established trees or shrubs growing in or near lawns or groundcovers that are fertilized regularly. Tree root systems extend for a long distance and they absorb nutrients when the area above them is fertilized. Additionally, as trees mature, their roots develop associations with fungi called mycorrhizae. These beneficial fungi help the tree and other elements from the soil. Before you fertilize, take a look at your trees and ask these questions to help you decide if your tree needs additional nutrients: • How much annual growth do you see? Most young trees average about a foot of new shoot growth each year; older trees have significantly less. Is your tree growing less than expected? • Has the color, size, or amount of foliage changed over the past few years? Has the tree recently had disease or insect problems? If you answered yes to any of these questions, the tree might benefit from fertilization. The best time to fertilize is in the spring. If you fertilize in the fall, you run the risk of shocking the plant into becoming metabolically active right when cold weather hits. Most woody plants begin the new year's growth with elements stored from the year before. An application of fertilizer in the spring gives an additional boost to this new growth. Garden references vary about how much fertilizer to apply to trees and shrubs. Ross Penhallegon, horticulturist with the Oregon State University Extension Service, has a general rule of thumb for fertilizing trees and shrubs&emdash;use 1/4 to 1/2 pound of nitrogen per inch of diameter for trees six inches or more in diameter at breast height. Use 1/4-pound actual nitrogen per inch on smaller trees. This is roughly two to four pounds of complete fertilizer per inch diameter on the larger trees and half that dosage on smaller trees. "As time goes on, you will be able to tell by the condition of tree or shrub, whether or not it needs more fertilizer," said Penhallegon. "Typically, healthy trees and shrubs have 12 to 18 inches of branch growth per year. Their leaf color should be dark green, with yellowish new growth." Apply the fertilizer along the drip line of the tree, the area with the majority of the roots. If the fertilizer is applied to the soil surface only, much can be washed away or will not filter into the soil to the root zone. For better absorption, Penhallegon recommends using a punch or probe to make holes 12 to 18 inches deep, and then filling the holes with fertilizer. Then be sure to water deeply. Another way to fertilize is to "pepper" the ground with fertilizer as you walk around the drip-line of the tree. This method should also provide an adequate amount of fertilizer, said Penhallegon. It is best to apply the fertilizer in this manner right before it rains, so the fertilizer will be washed into the root zone. Or water the fertilized area for an hour after application. For more information on "Fertilizing Ornamental and Shade Trees," FS 103, visit our on-line catalog. Our publications and video catalog at: http://eesc.oregonstate.edu/agcomwebfile/edmat shows which publications are available on the Web and which can be ordered as printed publications. West Side Gunk Seeps Over Cascades From WAWG's GreenSheet Waste Action Project (WAP), a Seattle-based rad enviro cell, is suing several east side cities to upgrade their sewage systems. Even though, as examples, Colville (pop. just under 5000) is currently constructing an $18-million system, and Wilbur (pop. 880) a system costing just under $3-million to keep a municipal sewage lagoon from overflowing, WAP wants the maximum fine (under the Clean Water Act) of $27,500/day&emdash;retroactive to over a decade ago!&emdash;applied to several cities east of the Cascades. WAP says it was encouraged to apply the tar and feathering by the state Dept. of Ecology (DOE). DOE says it said no such thing. Oops, subhead: west side gunk slithers over Snoqualmie.

Cleanliness Crucial To Protecting Against Avian Flu By Denny Fleenor, Washington State University People with small backyard flocks including those who raise chickens, geese, ducks, turkeys and other fowl can play an important role in protecting the state's commercial poultry industry. Mike Hackett, Washington State University Snohomish County Extension educator, says strict sanitation measures are critical to preventing an outbreak of avian influenza. Pointing to the British Columbia provincial government's emergency destruction of some 19 million birds, Hackett says that vigilance is critical for this state's poultry growers. One quarantined British Columbia farm is within 10 miles of the U.S. border, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture reports that avian flu has been detected in Canada within 600 yards of the border. USDA officials are now visiting farms and rural homes in Whatcom County looking for signs of the disease. The flu strain found in Canada has not been associated with serious human illness but it is extremely contagious and deadly among birds, including wild birds. Avian influenza doesn't respect borders, and it's easily spread," Hackett said. "If poultry and waterfowl producers take this threat to heart and enact a series of preventative measures, this economically devastating disease will not establish itself." The USDA's National Agricultural Statistics Service lists the value of poultry and egg production in Washington state at nearly $143 million. Lewis, Thurston, Clark, Cowlitz, Skagit, Whatcom, Snohomish and Pierce counties are the state's leading poultry producers. The Washington State Department of Agriculture is asking everyone who is raising birds, including pet birds, to monitor for signs of illness. Any suspicion of disease should be promptly reported to the state veterinarian's office. During regular business hours, Monday through Friday, the number is 360-753-9430. Weekend and after-hour calls will be taken by the state Emergency Operations Center, 1-800-258-5990. WSDA is also urging poultry farmers to limit personal contact with one another and to minimize visitors at their farms to reduce the chance of spreading the disease on shoes or clothing. Hackett says that cleanliness and avoiding potential contamination from other birds are crucial to controlling the spread of the disease. He also recommends that people raising birds learn the warning signs of avian illness, which include coughing, sneezing, nasal or eye discharge, diarrhea, and reduced egg production. Contact between a flock and other birds, including pet and wild birds, should be avoided. Hackett also recommends keeping human visitors away, especially if they also raise birds. The avian flu strain found in British Columbia may cause mild flu symptoms, according to the USDA. Humans may contract the disease through direct contact with infected birds but cannot catch it by eating cooked meat from infected birds. An extended news release with more detailed information on protecting birds from exposure to avian flu can be found at http://cahenews.wsu.edu. Buckwheat Is Good Summer Cover Crop For Home Gardens By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Need a good summer cover crop? Farmers and home gardeners are finding buckwheat to be a good "green manure" during the warmer part of the year in Oregon. Buckwheat is a fast-growing, warm-season, succulent, broad-leafed annual plant, that can smother out weeds, protect the soil surface and provide habitat for pollinating and other beneficial insects, explained Dan McGrath, crop scientist and staff chair for the Linn County office of the Oregon State University Extension Service. With a fibrous root system, buckwheat seed can germinate within days of planting, especially if the soil is warmer than 55 degrees. Not requiring much water and tolerating poor fertility, buckwheat is ideal for many less-than-ideal places in your garden. But it does not like saturated soils or shade. Since buckwheat is a succulent, it decomposes rapidly, and does not provide much organic matter to the soil. But it does improve the short-term tilth of the soil, and better prepares your garden bed for transplants. It is particularly efficient at taking up phosphorus from the soil and storing it in its tissues. There is some research evidence that incorporating buckwheat residues can increase phosphorus availability to the subsequent crop. Because buckwheat grows so rapidly, it is ideal for planting in places that might be left otherwise bare over the summer, such as spare garden beds whose spring crops are harvested and fall crops are yet to be planted. It can grow to flowering stage, about two to four feet high, in as little as four to five weeks, continue to flower for several weeks, then set seed two to three weeks after flowering. Buckwheat seeds are eaten by ground dwelling birds including pheasant and quail. Buckwheat can become a weed under certain circumstances, said McGrath. Farmers kill it with herbicides, mechanical cultivation and mulching. Home gardeners can easily pull it out or chop it down before it sets seed. Since buckwheat is frost sensitive, it will winter kill naturally. McGrath recommends planting buckwheat in the spring to early summer. Scatter the seed over your garden bed, at a rate of about one pound per 500 square feet of garden space (about three ounces per 100 square feet) and rake and water in. Though plants may appear wilted on hot summer afternoons, buckwheat does not require much water. Mow or cut down buckwheat within 2 weeks of first flowering if you want to avoid setting seed that could cause a "weed" problem in your following crop. Turn the buckwheat plants into the soil. They will decompose rapidly and not hinder your planting of subsequent crops. Some examples of a use of buckwheat in the home garden as a cover crop might include: • After harvest of late spring lettuce, plant buckwheat in early June. Then, in late July till it under and plant broccoli starts for over wintering. • After picking all your overwintered cole crops in May, plant buckwheat, then plow under after flowering in July or August. Then plant leafy salad greens or overwintering carrots or onions. • In a particularly weedy area, cut back and till under weeds in the spring or early summer and plant buckwheat, which will smother out the weeds. Then plant a fall-planted crop such as garlic. If you want to grow buckwheat for seed or grain, it will take about 3 months from time of planting. Buckwheat seed can be purchased from local farm supply stores, garden centers, seed company websites and mail order catalogs. For more information on "Cover Crops for Home Gardens," FS 304, visit our on-line catalog. Our publications and video catalog at: http://eesc.oregonstate.edu/agcomwebfile/edmat shows which publications are available on the Web and which can be ordered as printed publications. Plant-Disease Agents Succumb During Composting From University of Idaho's HomeWise If you added some mildewed or other diseased plants to your compost pile last fall and are wondering whether you'll be spreading plant diseases along with your compost through your garden this spring, a University of Idaho Extension plant pathologist says you can stop worrying. The composting process destroys most of the common agents that cause plant diseases in your garden, says Krishna Mohan at the UI's Parma Research and Extension Center. A well-managed compost pile can reach 120-140 degrees Fahrenheit and can remain at that temperature for a few days to a few weeks. Most fungi, bacteria, viruses and nematodes that infect the leaves, stems and roots of plants are likely to be inactivated or killed under those conditions, Mohan says. So are many weed seeds. Composting damages even the hard survival structures produced by such exceptionally rugged fungi as rhizoctonia, fusarium, verticillium and sclerotinia. These structures can remain dormant for several years in normal soil, but the composting process can weaken them or even kill them outright&emdash;or it can make them more vulnerable to parasitism by other molds and bacteria. For these reasons, Mohan endorses composting of yard wastes for all home gardeners. The combination of elevated heat and increased activity by antagonistic microbes is what does the trick. Toxic products released by decomposing organic matter under high temperatures also contribute. "A whole range of bacteria and fungi become very active in a hot compost pile and very easily degrade many of the organisms that cause plant diseases," Mohan says. "Disease-causing organisms don't compete well with aggressive microorganisms that are favored by elevated temperatures." In addition, as the pile cools down, it may become colonized by a number of different beneficial microbes. Where the compost is later applied, these microbes can help suppress molds that cause root diseases. But just because you've destroyed the disease-causing agents in your compost doesn't mean you won't be seeing them again, Mohan says. If they're present in your neighborhood and if conditions are right&emdash;usually a combination of temperature, moisture, humidity and poor air circulation between plants&emdash;you'll see those nasty disease symptoms on your plants again. Sawflies Take Flight Article reprinted from OWGL's Oregon Wheat Newsletter Mary K. Corp, OSU Extension cereal crop agent, Umatilla County; Glenn Fisher, Extension entomologist, Oregon State University Adult sawflies are currently in flight north of Pendleton and in the Adams area. Their appearance is being observed by many growers and crop consultants and started about two weeks ago (article published April 20, 2004). Their emergence this spring comes as no surprise after the large populations experienced last year. The adult sawflies seen now are emerging from adult pupae that have over wintered in the soil. The female mates immediately and will deposit as many as 80 eggs in her few weeks of life. Usually the eggs are laid singly on leaves of cereals and grasses and hatch within 10 days. Experiences with other outbreaks of sawflies in the West suggests that population levels are cyclical and field monitoring will be important to assess what happens to the numbers this year. We also should expect to see an increase in parasitic wasps, a biological control agent, this year that should help reduce the risk of damage from this pest. Although sawflies are rarely an economically important problem in Oregon cereal crops, unusually large populations (300 larvae/10 sweeps) of one species, probably Pachynematus sp., were found in Umatilla County in 2003. The larvae were first noticed in May feeding vigorously on leaves, including flag leaves, of winter wheat near Adams, Oregon. Approximately 25,000 acres were treated for sawfly control in 2003. Additional acres had population levels generally declined quickly beyond the locally affected area. History of the Pest: This has been a rare pest in the wheat-producing areas of Oregon. The last significant outbreak of sawflies in an Oregon field crop (300 larvae/25 sweeps) was in fine fescue grown for seed in the Willamette Valley in 1971 and 1972. This pest was Pachynematus setator. It is probably the sawfly that infested Umatilla County in 2003. Economically important infestations on West Coast wheat are relatively rare. For instance, the only previously significant outbreak of a sawfly on wheat was in California, in 1953. The larvae destroyed 200 acres. The following year 12,000 acres were sprayed. For whatever reason, significant outbreaks of this pest have not been reported since. Life Cycle The sawfly invading Umatilla County appears to have a life cycle similar to the one found in the Willamette Valley. There is only one generation a year. The wasps emerge from pupae in the soil during April and May. The female mates immediately and will deposit as many as 80 eggs in her few weeks of life. Usually, the eggs are laid singly on leaves of cereals and grasses and hatch within 10 days. Larvae feed on the leaves during the day for 3 to 4 weeks, longer in cool (50-60° F) temperatures. When mature, a larva drops to the soil and forms a cell in which it will remain until the following spring when it pupates and emerges as a wasp to begin the cycle again. During the 2003 Umatilla County infestation, most larvae had completed development and ceased feeding on leaves by early June. Identification The larvae look like caterpillars or foliage-feeding cutworms at first glance. However, sawfly larvae have three pairs of true legs followed by eight pairs of short stubby prolegs; caterpillars have no more than four such pairs of prolegs. Larvae are green to green-yellow. The prominent head is light green or tan. Larvae feed during the day, usually migrating to the crowns of plants at night. Management Factors significant to an outbreak&emdash;Weather and tillage appear to be significant factors. Accumulated surface residue on fields serves to shelter overwintering larvae through the winter. Cool, wet weather can delay or prevent spring cultivation, which usually would kill many of the larvae that overwinter in the soil. Biological controls, also have population cycles that allow pest populations to increase for short periods. Scouting the fields is an essential first step in designing a management strategy. Begin scouting in early May to determine whether the sawfly population is or will be large enough to do economic damage. Using a heavy-duty sweep net, take 10 straight-line sweeps in 10-15 locations throughout a field. Do this after mid-morning or when larvae have climbed back up on plants to resume feeding. See the section on chemical control, below, for how to interpret sweep net results and determine the need to apply insecticide. Non-chemical Control&emdash;Biological control and post-harvest tillage normally keep sawfly populations well below damaging levels. Cultural Control&emdash;When sawfly larvae are mature (usually by July) they crawl to the soil and pupate among plant residues and below the soil surface. Post-harvest cultivation effectively crushes and/or buries the overwintering pupal stage, thus drastically reducing populations the next spring. Plowed and/or disked fields seldom have problems with this pest. Biological Control&emdash;Parasitic wasps are important biological agents that help keep wheat sawflies below economically damaging population levels. Signs parasitic wasp activity are black marks and discoloration on what is normally the uniformly light green skin of the sawfly larva. These marks result when the parasitic wasp deposits an egg into the sawfly larva. The parasitized sawfly larva usually dies before it reaches maturity. Chemical Control&emdash;Occasionally an insecticide is recommended if cultural or biological controls are inadequate. Two insecticides, Warrior and Mustang, specifically mention sawflies on the label. Most organophosphate and pyrethroid insecticides labeled for use on wheat to control army worms or cutworms will effectively control sawflies, too. You may need to apply an insecticide if larval populations exceed 20/sweep and there's no indication of a natural decline (that is, no evidence of parasitism, and/or mature larvae remain in the soil to spin cocoons). You may want to treat at lower populations (10/sweep or fewer) if: 1. The larval population is increasing over that of the previous week, 2. Adult sawflies still are laying eggs on the wheat, 3. Wheat is under other stress, and 4. Larvae are quite small and/or they are beginning to defoliate flag leaves. The Media And Mad Cow By Susan Allen, Food Forethought Despite the expected volleys from the vegetarian frontlines, I am pleased to report that most print journalists have been a voice of reason regarding the case of mad cow in one Washington State bovine. An op-ed contributor to the New York Times called the disease a concern, "less because of any risk of contracting it through eating beef and more, because a knee-jerk reaction by the public, news media and policy makers could threaten our ability to make a reasoned and effective response to the threat." Sandy Szwarc, a food writer and columnist for publications like Bon Appetite, Gourmet, The Washington Post, and the LA Times, remarked in an online column that "those fretting about mad cow probably think nothing of taking a bath (which kills 320 Americans a year),.walking downstairs (which kills 1,421 Americans annually) or driving their car (which kills 42,000 of us each year)." Oddly, in stark contrast, television news has presented quite a different story. Predatory organic and animal right groupies have joyously sensationalized the BSE/mad cow findings, surprisingly irregardless the television network. I watched in "shock and awe" as New York University professor Marion Nestle appeared comfortably alone on FOX's O'Reilly Factor, smugly slapping the hands of the beef industry without any representation from our nation's cattle associations, let alone a challenging question from guest host Tony Snow. Nestle closed the segment by commenting, "I think people at home should be voting with their forks. This is a political issue"... and went on to say, "This is a very good time to buy organic." With that comment I checked the remote to see if I was still on FOX. Nestle concluded the interview by conceding "very few people will be affected, if any" by mad-cow illness. (Why is it a political issue then?) I find it interesting that Michael Jackson can, in the blink of an eye or the a wave of a glove, manage to get on 60 minutes to tell his side of his story to a warm and fuzzy Santa (alias Ed Bradley), yet America's cattle industry seemingly lacks the ability to garner any television appearances. Where is Sam Elliot assuring us he is still eating beef? The backbone of our cattle industry, the National Cattlemen's Beef Association appears broken and now lies in a vulnerable position, twisted, contorted and sadly lacking a working public relations system. Who can blame television's talking heads for wanting to win the ratings war? So, if I was going to point a finger, or a smoking gun, it would be directed to those folks at the top of the cattle industry, officials at the National Cattlemen's Beef Association who for many years have opposed the newly adopted safety provisions. This association has said that it represents American cattle producers, but if you ask our nations' cattlemen and women they are not seeing or hearing anything from the top. In this case silence is not golden, but tarnished. Maybe this mad cow incident is a wake up call not only for the cattle industry but for all of agriculture. Let me know what you think: sallen@aginfo.net Editor's Note: Food Forethought is a non-profit organization whose goal it is to educate consumers on the positive aspects of farming. They are constantly bombarded with the negatives. Susan Allen has been producing a radio program with these commentaries for over a year now airing on stations throughout Idaho, Oregon and Washington. The program airs 5 days a week inside the news program The Northwest Report by Andy Patrick.

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