July 2005

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Help Available For Growers Battling Aphids, Weevils By Denny Fleenor, Washington State University Knowing the enemy is the first step in battling the infestations of aphids, weevils and other pests so prevalent this time of year; Washington State University entomologists have developed tools to help. "Aphids of Western North America North of Mexico" and the"Western Washington Field Guide to Common Small Fruit Root Weevils" are available through the WSU College of Agricultural, Human, and Natural Resource Sciences. "There are hundreds of different species of aphids in the region, and that is always a concern," said Keith Pike, research entomologist located at Prosser. "You name the crop; we've got an aphid that infests it." Pike and research technologists Leslie Boydston and David Allison developed the guide to assist in the identification of aphids of North America north of Mexico to subfamily and to genus based on the winged female. Unique to this guide is a comprehensive portfolio of photos and illustrations for each genus, providing close-up views of the winged female. Research associate Bev Gerdeman worked with research entomologist Lynell Tanigoshi to produce a compact, yet comprehensive, field guide to another pest to Washington growers&emdash;small fruit root weevils. "Growers need to be alerted to these weevils; if you've got them you need to treat them," Tanigoshi said. "Our whole philosophy is that you've got to know your enemy." The "Western Washington Field Guide to Common Small Fruit Root Weevils" is a pocket-sized publication, the first from WSU to be printed on synthetic, plastic paper that is waterproof. Copies of these and other publications from WSU Bulletins can be ordered by calling (800) 723-1763 or online at http://pubs.wsu.edu. Blast Those Blasted Spider Mites With Your Garden Hose From University of Idaho's HomeWise Against a sheet of white paper, they're tiny moving spots. But two-spotted spider mites aren't tiny in any other way, says Ed Bechinski, University of Idaho Extension integrated pest management specialist. Capable of reproducing a new generation every five or six days and sucking 100 plant cells bone-dry every minute, they're formidable pests in the landscape. Fortunately, a blast of water will wash these pests right off the plants they're infesting, Bechinski says. In addition, lots of beneficial insects will prey on them and lots of insecticides will kill them&emdash;although broad-spectrum synthetic insecticides are likely to kill beneficial insects, too, and may not be labeled for safe use on home-garden produce. (Always check the label to make sure it includes both the pest you are targeting and the plant you are protecting.) Indeed, broad-spectrum chemical sprays can spark spider-mite flare-ups by destroying the very beneficials that had been keeping the pests in check. That's why Bechinski recommends soil-applied systemic insecticides for those homeowners who prefer pesticides over other approaches. Two-spotted spider mites thrive in hot, dusty conditions. Plant evergreens along a dusty road and you're almost guaranteed a hearty population by the Fourth of July. They also flourish in flushes of new vegetation spurred by overfertilizing with nitrogen in spring "They're one reason why it's better to use slow-release fertilizers instead," Bechinski says. Spider mites can infest hundreds of different plants, including tree fruits, small fruits, evergreens, shade trees, vegetables and flowers. If you're unlucky, you can even bring them into your house on patio plants. With summer's heat unleashed, now is a good time to check your garden, landscape and potted plants for bronze, stippled needles or leaves (first sign), webbing across new growth (second sign) and dry, burned-looking plant parts (third sign). If you suspect spider mites, slip a sheet of white paper under the affected branch and shake. "Any small moving dots are likely to be spider mites," Bechinski says. Spider mites are among Idaho gardeners' most predictable problems. But think about it: how many of this summer's troubles can you trounce by regularly dousing them&emdash;along with the kids, the dog and even you&emdash;with a refreshing stream from the garden hose? Black Vine Weevil Problems From University of Idaho's HomeWise If black vine weevils left their telltale irregular notches on the leaf edges of your woody ornamentals last year, consider doing battle with them where it really counts this spring: in your plants' root zone. Those notches made by the adult weevils' nighttime feeding are simply a cosmetic issue, says Ed Bechinski, University of Idaho Extension integrated pest management. In and of themselves, they're unlikely to harm your shrub. But what can cost you your rhododendron, azalea, lilac, privet or other woody ornamental is the very effective root pruning the young weevil larvae do underground. "It's an underestimated problem," says Bechinski. Indeed, this root damage, which mimics other stresses, can be so extensive that it can lead to the plant's decline and ultimate death, particularly in broadleaved evergreens. Come summer, you can kill adult black vine weevils with various foliar products labeled to do the job, Bechinski says. But he recommends stopping the season's weevils at the larval stage-before they mature into adults and lay another generation of eggs-by applying beneficial nematodes once soil temperatures reach 55 degrees Fahrenheit this spring. You can purchase either Steinernema or Heterorhabditis nematodes to dispatch your weevil larvae, but Bechinski prefers the latter: they go to the larvae rather than waiting for the larvae to come to them.  Follow the instructions carefully, mixing the nematodes with water and pouring them around the base of last year's damaged shrubs. You'll need to leave the soil wet enough for the nematodes to move through the resulting film but not so wet that plant roots are water-logged and oxygen-starved. Beneficial nematodes kill black vine weevil larvae by entering their bodies and releasing a fast-acting bacterium that's deadly to the weevils. Steinernema nematodes can only enter through natural bodily openings, while Heterorhabditis can chew their ways right into the larvae. According to Bechinski, this environmentally, human- and pet-friendly biocontrol method "works reasonably well-and it works especially well with plants growing in pots." But once you've committed to trying it, applications of many chemicals will be off-limits to the plant, since they could inadvertently destroy the nematodes. Another environmentally friendly alternative, suitable to infested shrubs that are isolated from other plants:  lay an entangling trap of sticky material around the plant's base. It will ensnare the flightless adults as they head up the plant at sundown. 12 Years Could Be The Charm For Green-Manure Research By Marlene Fritz, University of Idaho University of Idaho nematologist Saad Hafez thinks Idaho's agricultural producers should consider including green-manure crops in their rotations. The fall- or spring-planted crops-typically oilseed radishes or mustards-build and replenish soils when they're turned under after a few months' growth. They also slash nematode populations by serving as nonhosts or poor hosts for the sugarbeet- and potato-damaging pests as well as by releasing biofumigating chemicals and activating natural enemies. For the past eight years, Hafez has studied crop rotations involving sugarbeets, potatoes, wheat, sweet corn, beans and oilseed-radish green manures. Last fall, he started a new study that includes onions and that's slated to continue for a dozen years. Not only will Hafez and other researchers measure the impacts of onions in these rotations, but they will examine the physical changes in soil produced by the green-manure crop. "You get great benefits from green-manure crops, even if you don't have sugarbeet cyst nematodes or other nematodes," Hafez says. For example, as organic matter builds, soil tilth and water-holding capacity increase and compaction and erosion decrease. The organic matter slowly releases nitrogen into the soil, reducing the need for synthetic nitrogen without leaching excess fertilizer into > groundwater. Hafez says more producers would use green-manure crops, but they haven't been able to fit them into their crop rotations. "The stumbling block is the timing," he says. "During the time that growers would be planting the green-manure crop, they are harvesting other crops or getting the ground ready for next year, so their labor and equipment are tied up." Selecting the right green-manure crop is also critical: some will host diseases, weeds or even the very nematodes growers would like to control. Others aren't as frost tolerant as they should be. Hafez says new oilseed radishes not yet available in the marketplace should entice more Idaho potato and sugarbeet growers into giving green-manure crops a try within a few years: the varieties Defender and Comet cut populations of both sugarbeet cyst nematodes and potato-damaging Columbia root-knot nematodes by 95 and 99 percent, respectively, in his greenhouse experiments. "Their main advantage is that they reduce both of these nematodes," says Hafez. Previously, green-manure crops that discouraged one nematode encouraged the other. In addition, Defender and Comet reach nematode-inhibiting growth stages in six to eight weeks-two weeks earlier than other varieties. That will give growers more opportunities to squeeze them into their rotations after a fall-harvested crop or before a spring-planted crop. The best older varieties of oilseed radish green-manures curbed populations of Columbia root-knot nematodes by 50 percent and sugarbeet cyst nematodes by 80-90 percent, Hafez says. He will evaluate the effectiveness of Defender and Comet in the field and hopes they will be available to Idaho growers by 2006. In the 1998-2004 study, Hafez and colleague Sundararaj Palanisamy determined that potatoes and beans suppress sugarbeet cyst nematodes more than wheat or sweetcorn do. In the current and longer study, Hafez will study not only the impacts of six crops but of fall-planted oilseed-radish green-manures included once, twice or three times over the course of 12 years. "If one year is enough, we don't need two," he says. "If two are enough, we don't need three." That would minimize the frequency with which growers would need to fit green-manure crops into their rotations while maximizing the crops' contributions to their soil. Both the Idaho Potato Commission and the Idaho Sugarbeet Growers' Association have contributed funding toward the research. Controlling Late-Season Weeds In Sugarbeets By Marlene Fritz, University of Idaho Tall weeds towering over late-season sugarbeets have long been a frustration to Idaho's growers. With hoeing crews hard to find and harder to pay for and with over-the-top herbicide sprays offering underwhelming control, growers have been short of options for battling the yield-stealing invaders. For the fourth year in a row, University of Idaho weed scientist Don Morishita is testing an innovative application method that may help growers protect their crops from statuesque plants of kochia, common lambsquarters and redroot pigweed. Morishita's research-sized wiper-applicator&emdash;similar to tools used in other states and other crops&emdash;is a carpeted, continually turning tube that he pulls through the field behind a tractor. When Morishita and his research team spray a mixture of Roundup and foaming agent onto this carpeted tube and touch the resulting lather to the tops of the targeted weeds, the results are encouraging. Monsanto has already labeled this application method for Roundup, in part because of data provided to the firm by Morishita and Stacey Camp, agronomist for Amalgamated Sugar Co., LLC. Morishita will repeat the trials in early and late July at the university's Kimberly Research and Extension Center using several different concentrations of Roundup and other herbicides. In 2003, the wiper-applicator was roughly as effective as hand-weeding in protecting sugar yields, resulting in about three times as many tons of sugar per acre as untreated "check" plots. In 2004, weed control with the wiper-applicator was 96 percent for kochia, 81 percent for common lambsquarters and 76 percent for redroot pigweed. That compares with 99 percent, 94 percent and 86 percent for hand-weeding and is fairly consistent with results from previous years. By comparison, control using the standard approach&emdash;one pre-emergence herbicide, two post-emergence herbicides and no late-season herbicides&emdash;is typically about 68 percent, 71 percent and 81 percent, respectively, for the three weeds. Morishita cautions growers to be "really careful" when using wiper-applicators because of the possibility of crop injury. "Any Roundup that gets on the crop is going to affect it," he says. To minimize the risk, he tested the herbicide at 25 percent, 37.5 percent and 50 percent concentrations and found that the 25 percent concentration worked as well as the higher rates. "It's more important to control weeds early in the season than later in the season," Morishita says, "but when you aren't able to get good early-season control, then this is something to use. A lot of growers have tried it and are really happy with the way it has turned out for them." Morishita is also evaluating over-the-top mowing at the request of several innovative growers who have already given it a try. He says mowing even one time using a gas-powered hedge trimmer significantly improved sugar yields in his research field. His once-mowed plots produced 21 tons of sugar per acre compared with 13 tons for the check plots and 24 tons for hand-weeded plots. Morishita will repeat those trials this year, too. As The Rain Comes Down, Crop Fertilizer Needs Go Up Clain Jones, Montana State University News As the rains come down, a crop's need for fertilizer goes up. Recent rains mean the fertilizer needs may be considerably higher than the amount growers applied last fall or this spring, according to a Montana State University soil scientist. Recent rains in Montana that have increased soil moisture to well above five-year averages may warrant additional nitrogen fertilizer on crops to increase yield and quality, said Clain Jones, MSU Extension soil fertility specialist. He said that the percentage of Montana fields with adequate or surplus topsoil moisture has risen from 37 percent in early April to 83 percent for the week ending June 5, based on Montana Agricultural Statistics Service data. By comparison, the five-year average for June 5 is 54 percent with adequate or surplus moisture. The percentage of subsoil with adequate or surplus moisture hasn't increased as much, but is still above five year averages. The favorable moisture levels have translated into 68 percent of the spring wheat crop being rated good to excellent, compared to 48 percent for the five-year average. "Because many nitrogen fertilizer decisions were made in early spring after a dry winter, many fields probably don't have enough nitrogen for their new, higher potential yields.", Jones said. In addition, he said some nitrate leaching may have occurred on shallow, coarse-textured soils. Therefore, the amount of nitrogen needed to maximize both yield and quality is probably higher than growers would have estimated two months ago. Winter wheat is probably too tall to be top-dressed with nitrogen fertilizer, except by plane. However, both spring grains and grass can be top-dressed with fertilizer now if the soil is dry enough to get equipment into the field. The difficult decisions that producers and their consultants may now want to make are first whether a crop should be top-dressed with nitrogen, and if so, with how much. "Predicting the weather for the remainder of the growing season is impossible, so all that growers can do is to make a best estimate of nitrogen needs with what is known," said Jones. The total fertilizer nitrogen need in areas that now have near normal soil moisture can be based on historical average yields and using the booklet "Fertilizer Guidelines for Montana Crops" that can be ordered through or obtained at your local Extension office. A soil nitrate-nitrogen test will be invaluable in calculating top-dress nitrogen needs. Nitrogen is then calculated as the total nitrogen need minus the sum of pre-plant nitrogen and soil nitrogen, Jones said. Alternatively, potential yields for spring wheat at seeding can be adjusted by using the rule of thumb of 4-5 bushels per inch of available water (soil water plus growing season moisture). For instance, in an area that received two inches more rain than anticipated when fertilizer decisions were made, the spring wheat yield potential should have increased by 8-10 bushels, which requires about 30 units of top-dress nitrogen, assuming other plant needs are met. "There is risk involved in topdressing, because the summer could be dry, but there is also the risk of decreased yield or quality by not top-dressing," Jones said. If protein premiums are as high as last year's, there's additional incentive to provide wheat crops with sufficient nitrogen. The nitrogen should be applied soon to minimize damage to the stand from tire traffic, and if possible, should be applied in time to reasonably expect at least half an inch of rain or irrigation to push the nitrogen into the root zone, he added. Most nitrogen applied before flowering will go into yield, but nitrogen remaining in the root zone after flowering will make protein. For those with application options other than fertilizer spreaders, such as sprinkler systems, nitrogen application can be delayed until the growing season weather and yield potentials are better known. A disadvantage of applying nitrogen as a liquid, instead of in granular form, is that not as much can be applied at a time due to the potential for leaf burn. Grass hay fields and improved pasture should not be ignored when it comes to applying nitrogen to match increased soil moisture and potential yield. For grass with plenty of water, yet insufficient nitrogen, an additional 25 pounds of nitrogen per acre can increase yield by one ton per acre, more than paying for the cost of the nitrogen fertilizer. Again, soil testing for nitrogen will determine if additional nitrogen is needed, although lower yellow leaves are a good indicator of nitrogen deficiency as well. Contact your local MSU Extension agent or crop adviser for help with your top-dressing decisions, or for additional information on soil testing, fertilizer nitrogen calculations, and topdressing, see Nutrient Management Modules 1, 3 and 11 on the Web at http://landresources.montana.edu/nm Wet Spring Brings On Fruit Tree Cankers By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Prolonged wet, cool weather in May and June is likely to bring on canker disease problems in cherry and other stone fruit trees in Oregon. Look for patches of leaves that have grown out, died, but have not fallen from the bud. Stone fruit trees with fewer than normal leaves may also be symptomatic of canker problems. If your cherry, peach, plum or ornamental cherries and plums exhibit this symptom, they may be suffering from an invasion of a bacterial disease called bacterial canker or gummosis, explained Ross Penhallegon, horticulture agent and tree fruit expert with the Lane County office of the Oregon State University Extension Service. The disease is one of several plant diseases caused by the bacteria Pseudomonas syringae. Dead buds and limbs on cherry and other stone fruit trees become evident as warm weather approaches. Tree branches may die in segments or entire trees may die. Cankers form on the bark, girdling branches and limbs of older trees, or entire trunks of younger trees. The forming of gum is one symptom of bacterial gummosis, but much of the damage may occur without this symptom. If you have buds that failed to develop into flowers, the bacteria may have also killed them. This phase of the disease is called "dead bud." There are often dead patches of leaves. As with other aspects of Pseudomonas, a wet spring will produce more severe symptoms. With good pruning and thorough spray programs in the fall and again in the early spring, you can help severely infected trees heal from a canker infection. Many cankers cease growth with the onset of dry weather. Here's how to help prevent and reduce stone fruit cankers: Prune dead wood back to live growth. Delay this practice until you see where the new growth has developed, well into summer. Between pruning each tree, sterilize your pruning tools with denatured alcohol. Spray trees thoroughly at least twice with copper materials such as Bordeaux 12-12-100, Microcopy, or Oxide for best control. The first application should be as the fall rains begin or in early October. The second spraying should be in early January. Since the bacteria may have invaded the tree, these protective sprays are the most effective measure to fight disease. Give damaged trees additional fertilizer during the growth season. For more information, as well as more control recommendations and photos of this disease, visit the OSU Extension On-line Guide to Plant Disease Control at: http://plant-disease.ippc.orst.edu/disease.cfm?RecordID=270 Harness The Summer Sun To Kill Weeds And Soil Pests By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Take advantage of the summer sunlight to help reduce weeds, diseases and pests in your soil with a process called solarization. All you need is some thin, transparent plastic sheeting, some sunny days and a little patience, for the process can take 8 to 10 weeks. During June through August, the sunlight is powerful enough in Oregon to solarize soil, explained Dan McGrath, vegetable crops specialist and staff chair of the Linn County office of the Oregon State University Extension Service. "Solarization is like the cleansing process that takes place in a compost pile," explained McGrath. "When the soil temperature rises under the plastic, microorganisms that prefer warmer temperatures flourish and attack many of the harmful organisms." Solarization can be especially useful in helping to kill many weeds and unwanted vegetation before making new garden beds. It also works to reduce the number of weeds between raised garden beds or in problem areas in yards. It has also been used successfully to reduce pathogens, nematodes and weeds in the upper soil layers before planting garden beds or young fruit trees. Preparation is necessary before laying the plastic down on the soil surface. Work up your garden bed and get it ready for planting, then solarize. Then take care not to disturb the soil after solarization, as the weed and pathogen-killing heat from the sun only penetrates a few inches. Here are the steps of the process: First, cut or mow all weeds down and remove debris and large clods. Rototill or turn over your soil. Rake the soil to a smooth surface, as air pockets or other irregularities on the soil surface inhibit maximum heating. Next, wet down the soil. The moisture causes the organisms to be more susceptible to the heat and helps the heat penetrate deeper into the soil. Then lay down your plastic sheeting. Clear polyethylene plastic about 1 to 4 millimeters thick works best for solarizing soil. Cut the plastic to fit the area you want to solarize. Anchor down the plastic by burying the edges of the tarp in the soil. Leave the plastic on for at least eight to ten weeks, preferably during the long, hot days of summer. The process works best during July or August, but can be started in June, or extended into September, especially in areas with a cool and cloudy spring season, such as the coast or the Willamette Valley. McGrath studied the effects of solarization on soils for six years in Marion County agricultural fields and at the OSU North Willamette Research and Extension Center in Aurora. He found that solarization helps reduce weed numbers, but it does not eliminate all weeds. Some weeds, including purslane, are resistant to solarization, he said. The clear plastic captures radiant heat energy from the sun, thereby causing physical, chemical and biological changes in the soil, explained McGrath. Solarization reduces populations of weeds, disease-causing organisms, harmful invertebrates and insect pests in the top 3 to 6 inches of soil without using pesticides or herbicides. Solarization also increased populations of warmth loving beneficial soil organisms in research projects, he said. Researchers at the University of California also studied the effects of solarization. They found that solarization killed weeds like barnyard grass, Bermuda grass, nightshade, chickweed, thistle, pigweed, velvet leaf and lambsquarters. The process also killed many fungi, nematodes, weed seeds and other pest and disease organisms in the upper layer of soil. For starters, try solarizing one garden bed per year, thereby reducing weeds and pathogens in a "summer fallow" rotation process, just as farmers do, suggested McGrath. The success of solarization depends on the intensity of sunlight, soil moisture, weather and length of time the plastic is left on the soil. If you live in a foggy, cloudy or windy climate, the process may not be as effective as in a hot dry climate. The plastic may need to be left on longer than in a sunny hot area. Besides controlling pest organisms, University of California researchers found that plants grew better than they expected in solarized soil. They speculate the treatment might increase the availability of some plant nutrients and beneficial microorganisms in the soil. Solarization may also be used to eliminate pests and pathogens from homemade potting mixes. Spread moist potting mix in a 3 to 4-inch layer on a clean asphalt or cement driveway and cover it with clear plastic sheeting and leave for the recommended 8 to 10 weeks. Basil Is The Fragrant King Of Herbs By Peg Herring, Oregon State University Sweet basil. Its scientific name (Ocimum basilicum) means "fragrant king," and many would agree it is the king of herbs. Basil is as beautiful as it is useful. Foliage colors range from pale green to emerald, vivid purple and purple laced with gold. Texture varies from silky and shiny to crinkled and matte. Brush against its foliage or crush a leaf, and basil releases a wonderfully spicy fragrance. Varieties include cinnamon, lemon and anise. A member of the mint family, basil has the familiar four-sided stems and whorled flowers, but is more refined in its growth, as befits a king. Basil is native to the warm parts of India and Asia, where it has been cultivated as a perennial for thousands of years. In Oregon, it grows as an annual. Ross Penhallegon, horticulturist with the Oregon State University Extension Service, offers some advice about growing this king of herbs. Start basil in flats or wait until the soil temperature is consistently above 50 degrees, then plant basil seed directly into a well-worked, composted garden bed. Cover seeds with fine soil, no deeper than one-eighth of an inch. Gently tamp down soil over seeds and water with a fine spray. Seeds should germinate in one to two weeks. Keep the soil moist, as these warm spring days can dry soil out in a jiffy. Young basil seedlings wither easily in the hot sun. Provide shade for them the first week after emergence. Thin seedlings by cutting unwanted plants off at the soil surface with scissors. Basil plants should eventually be planted 12 to 18 inches apart. After seedlings are about six inches high, pinch off the tops for bushier plants. Basil leaves can be harvested off the plants periodically throughout the summer. Water and fertilize your basil plants frequently. Pinch off the flowers to keep the plant from setting seed. Many varieties of basil seed and transplants are available from nurseries and seed catalogs. Italian varieties including "Napoleatano" or "Genovese" are favorites for pesto. Cinnamon- and clove-scented varieties are good for seasoning vegetable dishes. Dwarf basils, including Greek basil, are excellent varieties for planters and window sill gardening and make great summer garnishes. African basil is a soft perennial which can be grown in a greenhouse almost year long. Thai basils are especially delicious in Far East cooking, rice dishes and with fish. Spicy purple basils dress up vinegars or leafy salads. Basil can dress up a garden as well as a dish. It will blend with colorful lettuce, and really grow well on the edge of a bed of tomatoes. Combine it with annuals, such as dwarf snapdragons, and French marigolds. The dwarf basil 'Spicy Globe' makes a wonderful mounded edging, where the chance brush of a hand will fill the garden with spicy scent.

Some Berry Good Advice From University of Idaho's HomeWise Nothing says summer quite like strawberries. If you're reaping the bounty of your own home-grown berries, say thank you&emdash;and many happy returns&emdash;by giving those plants some extra attention right now. University of Idaho Extension educator Jo Ann Robbins advises gardeners to give their strawberries ample water throughout the growing season, especially during harvest and in the early fall when flower buds are forming for the next year's crop. Ever-bearing and day-neutral strawberries&emdash;which produce fruit throughout the growing season&emdash;should be fertilized several more times after an initial early-spring application. That will give the plants the nourishment they need for continuous production of flower buds and fruit. Wait until the dormant season before trimming back old leaves and thinning crowns of these types of strawberries, Robbins says. June-bearing strawberries, on the other hand, should be trimmed of old foliage immediately after their last harvest. Clip off the tops of the plants, leaving stubble roughly 3 inches tall. Next, thin plants to allow ample growing space for each crown. Finally, fertilize and water well. Strawberries benefit from a half- to a full-pound of nitrogen annually per 1,000 square feet of bed, Robbins says. Your fertilizer applications to ever-bearing and day-neutral strawberries should add up to this much for the entire season, while June-bearers should get the whole amount at once&emdash;right after you've picked the last of their berries. "For all types of strawberries, flower buds for the next year form in the fall, so an application of fertilizer right after the last harvest promotes maximum fall growth and flower bud formation," Robbins says. She recommends a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 and cautions against applying nitrogen in spring to June-bearing strawberries. OSU Offers Guide On Building Wild Bird Nest Boxes By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Woodpeckers, wood ducks, swallows, bluebirds and barn owls are among the 45 species of cavity nesting birds in Oregon. But most people in suburban and urban areas consider dying or dead trees (snags) where these birds nest to be safety hazards or eyesores. So nesting habitat for these birds is scarce. If you have some dead trees on your property you can make them safe for people while saving them for the birds. But if you have no snags at all, you can help replace the loss of natural cavities by adding nest boxes to your yard, suggests Nancy Allen, wildlife biologist with the Oregon State University Department of Fisheries and Wildlife. The bird houses for sale at stores and garden centers are often expensive or they may not be the right kind for the species of cavity nesters found in your area. By building your own nest boxes for birds, you can be sure you have the right dimensions and other features important for the species near you. The OSU Extension Service offers a seven-page guide with building instructions, placement recommendations and nest box dimensions for about 18 species of cavity nesting birds including the American kestrel, barn owl, black-capped and chestnut-backed chickadees, downy and hairy woodpeckers, house wren, the northern saw-whet owl and the tree and violet-green swallow. "Build Nest Boxes for Wild Birds," (EC 1556) can be downloaded from the Web at: http://eesc.orst.edu/agcomwebfile/edmat/EC1556.pdf Or printed copies are available by mail for $1.50 per copy plus $3 shipping and handling. Send a request and check or money order payable to OSU: Publication Orders, Extension and Experiment Station Communications, 422 Kerr Administration Bldg., OSU, Corvallis, OR 97331-2119. Plant Management Network From Amy Steigman The Plant Management Network (PMN), an innovative website designed for plant and agricultural professionals, is pleased to welcome the University of Maryland Cooperative Extension as a new university partner. "The amount of information available on this site enables us to give our county extension agents the right information at the right time," said Bob Tjaden, assistant director for Agriculture and Natural Resources (AGNR) Programs at the University of Maryland. "Not only does this network provide our agents with access to current research published in PMN's journals, but it also provides our agents with opportunities to input their own research to the site," Tjaden said. University of Maryland Cooperative Extension is a statewide, informal education system within the College of Agriculture and Natural Resources and the University of Maryland Eastern Shore. Its educational programs and problem-solving assistance are available to citizens and are based on the research and experience of land-grant universities such as the University of Maryland, College Park. Other PMN partners include: Syngenta Crop Protection, Pioneer Hi-Bred, Valent BioSciences Corporation, PBI/Gordon Corporation, Campbell Scientific, The American Phytopathological Society, American Society of Agronomy, American Society for Horticultural Science, Canadian Phytopathological Society, Canadian Society of Agronomy, CAST, Crop Adviser Institute, CropLife America, Crop Science Society of America, Entomological Society of America, National Alliance of Independent Crop Consultants, NCSRP Plant Health Initiative, Potash & Phosphate Institute, and the Weed Science Society of America. PMN's partners also include a growing list of more than 20 U.S. state land-grant university colleges of agriculture. PMN publishes four science-based applied journals - Applied Turfgrass Science, Crop Management, Plant Health Progress, and Forage and Grazinglands&emdash;and includes an image database, three field trials publications, a plant science database of more than 4,000 fact sheets and other web-based resources, and a monthly newsletter. PMN also offers continuing education units to Certified Crop Advisers through its education and training center. For more information, visit: http://www.plantmanagementnetwork.org. Bad News Sells And Farmers Sell Out Food Forethought by Susan Allen I don't know how many additional issues of the November 2004 Vanity Fair were sold because of the cover story "America's Beef is Rotten and Washington Couldn't Care Less", but I seriously doubt the numbers varied much over other past issues the magazine has published. I would also question whether subscribers of Vanity Fair could even recall the piece less than a year later, yet for one demographic group it remains etched in memory, our cattlemen. As the November issue of Vanity Fair magazine was cast off to either doctor's offices or recycling bins, the beef industry was still reeling from the aftermath of BSE, a disaster that cost the industry between $3.3 billion and $4.7 billion last year. For ranchers, the article was simply another hit below the belt by a voracious media subsisting on a diet of press releases fed by animal rights organizations (like PETA) and organic extremists whose agenda was to topple the commercial beef industry when it was most venerable. For the media it was simply about ratings, and while we have all heard the adage "bad news sells", the majority of us will never suffer the ramifications of that cliché like American farmers, who have paid dearly for sensationalism and hysteria perpetrated by a bias press. Sixteen years ago, (only yesterday for my friends that grow apples), Ed Bradley told the nation on 60 Minutes that the "most potent cancer causing agent in our food supply is a substance sprayed on apples to keep them on the trees longer and make them look better. That is the conclusion of a number of scientific experts." His words still cause pain over a decade later as I quote them, because I am aware of the potential damage they could do if taken out of context. The power of the written and spoken word is profound and in the case of the apple industry, poison. Despite the fact that it was proven Alar's effects on human heath was minimal, or that the so called scientific "experts" lauded by Ed Bradley and Meryl Streep didn't practice sound science after all, despite the fact the Apple industry sued CBS, the damage had been done. Apple sales plummeted, with industry losses of 375 million dollars. Ed Bradley received more money for that episode than most apple growers netted that year. While Ed moved on to tape yet another 60 Minutes segment, he left growers in his wake struggling to pick up the pieces of college and retirement dreams shattered over simple misinformation. 14 years later potato growers would again question the media's lack of accountability. In 2003, acrylamide reared its ugly head over a potato industry dependent on french fry consumption. While acrylamide hysteria made the rounds of USA Today, the CBS Early Show, and the news wires, these same organizations failed to report additional studies that were also available. One published in the British Journal of Cancer found no link between acrylamide and bowel cancers, claiming that in fact, the risk of those cancers was actually lower in individuals that consumed more acrylamide containing foods, but the public was never made aware of it. Last fall the New York Times Magazine did not do wheat farmers any favors when they stated "carb-counters see bread as enemy Number 1", and added that "America's culinary ambassador (meaning bread) has gone stale ". I am sure that majority of readers regarded these 'off the cuff" observations in the dining section of a national newspaper as harmless , but for those who grow the grain that goes into the new dietary "enemy"  press like this could be devastating . Months after the Times caption, and at the peak of the Adkins diet, the Bread Council completed a survey and found that as many as 40 percent of consumers said they planned to eat less bread.  Media hysteria is a is a highly contagious disease that spreads like wildfire, and there is not an agricultural demographic group from salmon farming to sugar, citrus to dairy, that is immune to the misinformation virus. How I desperately wish commodity groups and industry leaders would grasp the fact that in today's over-communicated society, news no longer comes from one or two sources, affording the ag industry numerous new alternative outlets to offensively squelch junk science. It is imperative that those in the business of agriculture learn to nurture relationships with the press and construct a media infrastructure that will assure our farmers come out the backside of the next "alar-like" incident unscathed. Warning to Dairy, you are the target of the latest "study" to be plastered on the evening news.  Plant More Carrots In Early Summer For Fall And Winter By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Carrots can still be planted into July for fall and winter harvest in most areas of Oregon. In higher elevation areas in July, plant only shorter season varieties with 50 to 60 days to maturity. Most seed packets list days-to-maturity information. Carrots grow best in deep, well-drained sandy or peaty soils. Raised beds, worked to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, provide optimum drainage and allow for maximum root length and smoothness. Hard soil clods, uncomposted manure or fertilizer granules may cause carrots to fork, become hairy and crooked. A soil pH of 6.0 to 7.0 is optimal. Sprinkle seed thinly in furrows 1/2 inch deep, with rows 12 inches apart. Cover lightly with soil. Keep moist until germination. Carrot seed is slow to germinate, often taking 12 to 14 days to sprout. If you want large carrots, thin carrot seedlings to two inches apart after the tops are three inches tall. For summer-planted carrots, try covering seed with finely sifted vermiculite or compost instead of soil to keep the seed damp until germination and to keep the soil from crusting over. As summer-planted carrots grow and mature into the autumn, cover the roots with thick, loose mulch such as straw if the weather gets below 32 degrees. Mulching prevents the tops of the roots from turning green in the sun and keeps them from freezing during cold weather. Vole Population Explosion Concerns Grass Seed Growers By Bob Rost, Oregon State University A vole population explosion, aided by warm, wet spring weather and the vole's prodigious reproductive capacity, has hit grass seed fields throughout the Willamette Valley, resulting in crop losses that may reach severe levels in some areas, according to Oregon State University experts. This year skyrocketing numbers of grey-tailed voles are inflicting varying degrees of crop damage on 40-50 percent of the grass seed acreage in the valley, causing some growers to describe the situation as the biggest vole outbreak in recent memory, said Mark Mellbye, an Extension field crops agent in the Linn County office of the OSU Extension Service. Grass seed is one of the state's top agricultural crops, earning over $300 million in commodity sales last year. Oregon is a leading grass seed producer in the United States, and Linn County is one of the top grass seed producing counties in the Willamette Valley. A task force is being formed to address the epidemic, officials say. Voles are members of the rodent family. Many species live in Oregon, including grey-tailed voles that are commonly found in valley grass seed fields. They feed on grass seed and on leafy plant growth, which stunts the plants, preventing them from producing seed. Often referred to as meadow mice or field mice, voles grow to no more than six inches in length and breed rapidly. Female voles can produce a new litter of 4-8 young every three weeks, and they breed again immediately after delivering their young. "This is the worst vole problem in grass seed crops that I've ever seen in my 20 years of working in the central and southern valley area," said Mellbye. "This clearly appears to be the case in Linn County where some fields have suffered up to 60 percent seed yield loss." Mellbye began to get a rough idea of the scope of the problem while examining grass seed experimental trial plots that he and other OSU Extension field crops faculty have established throughout the valley. "We typically set out trial grass seed plots in growers' fields in several locations to evaluate new fertilizer and plant disease control approaches," Mellbye said. "This year the trial plots have become a great tool in helping us measure the impact of vole damage on crop yields." The current flood of grey-tailed voles swarming through grass seed fields is due in part to the animal's eruptive population cycle. "Voles will go from a population low to a population peak every 3 &endash; 5 years," said Bruce Coblentz, professor in the OSU Department of Fisheries and Wildlife. "They're obviously in a peak year in the Willamette Valley now. "In addition, the warm, wet weather we've had so far this year has produced an abundance of thick vegetation in crop fields," Coblentz said. "This provides a plentiful food source and thick habitat cover that helps voles hide from predators." In most years, animals that prey on voles, including hawks, owls, coyotes, foxes, dogs and cats, would influence the rate of increase and the eventual peak density of vole populations, but in a year like this the number taken by predators is minuscule in comparison to the rate of reproduction of these voles, Coblentz explained. Responding to increasing concerns about the vole epidemic, the OSU Extension Service is coordinating the formation of a Vole Task Force. "This group will include OSU Extension faculty, grass seed industry representatives and Oregon Department of Agriculture officials," said Mellbye. "Our top priority will be to survey the extent of crop yield damage caused by voles throughout the valley. The task force will also examine alternative pest management methods and take steps to ensure that rodent baits are available and help growers to use them carefully according to application requirements." Plant Cilantro In Summer And Get Coriander Seeds By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University If you plant cilantro now, in late June or early July, it will flower, or bolt prematurely during the long, hot days of summer. Both temperature and day length influence flowering and seed setting, according to Jim Myers, vegetable breeder at Oregon State University's horticulture department. In warm or hot weather, cilantro has a shorter life cycle. In mid-summer, cilantro will bolt into small lacy flowers, then set seeds in about four to six weeks from time of sowing. In the cooler shorter days of spring or fall, cilantro will grow for several weeks to months longer before flowering and setting seed. To prolong the time until bolting, plant cilantro seed in a cooler part of the garden, suggests Ross Penhallegon, horticulturist with the OSU Extension Service. Or plant it in early spring and again in late summer when days are shorter and temperatures are lower. Bolting has a benefit. The flowers transform into seeds that can be collected, dried and ground into the spice coriander. Cilantro flowers are great for attracting beneficial insects to your garden, especially in the early morning and late evening. Gardeners should plant successive batches of seed to ensure fresh cilantro throughout the growing season. Avoid planting in mid-summer, as plants will soon bolt before growing much. Remember, if you want cilantro leaves, plant them in a cool or semi-shaded area in the heat of the season. Cilantro is most successfully grown by direct seeding or from starts. But be careful, as the long roots make it difficult to transplant. Sow cilantro seeds directly into sunny, fertile beds from early spring through early summer and then again in early autumn. Plant 10 to 15 seeds per foot of row. Cover the seeds with about one-half inch of soil. Thin plants to eight inches apart with rows 18 to 24 inches apart. Seeds will germinate with soil temperatures of 55 to 68 degrees. Cilantro plants can withstand temperatures down to freezing. Commonly used in Latin American, Asian and other cuisine, cilantro has become a popular herb in the United States. Its piquant flavor is a favorite in salsas, Thai food, garnishes and in stir-fries. All parts of the plant are useful. The seeds of the cilantro or coriander plant are ground and used as the spice called coriander, popular in breads, spice cakes, pickling spices and in Asian foods. Coriander root is used in Thai dishes. Cilantro leaves are best used fresh, as they lose much of their flavor when dried. The small immature leaves have the most flavor. Seeds, used as coriander, should be harvested before they drop. The roots, also used in Thai and Vietnamese cooking, are best harvested in the autumn. How To Reduce Your Risk Of Heart Disease From University of Idaho's HomeWise If you think the jury is still out on the value of fruits, vegetables and a low-fat diet, University of Idaho Extension nutrition specialist Martha Raidl has news for you: A recent study by researchers at the Human Nutrition Research Center on Aging at Tufts University found that male subjects who ate at least five servings of fruits and vegetables daily and kept saturated fat to less than 12 percent of their diet were 76 percent less likely to die from coronary heart disease than those who did not. The subjects' seven-day diet records were taken at up to seven different visits during the average 18-year course of the research. If they consumed a low-fat diet but didn't meet the five-a-day recommendation for fruits and vegetables&emdash;or vice versa&emdash;the research participants also lowered their risk of death from heart disease, but just by 64 to 67 percent. "These results show that making two relatively small dietary changes can reduce mortality from heart disease significantly more than making a single dietary change," says Raidl. Mow High For Deep Roots And Drought-Tolerant Grass From University of Idaho's HomeWise If you want your lawn to have a high tolerance for drought, mow it high, says Tom Salaiz, University of Idaho turfgrass specialist in Aberdeen. Salaiz recommends a mower height of 3 inches for Kentucky bluegrass and bluegrass-ryegrass mixes and a slightly higher 3.5 inches for turf-type tall fescues. "My guess is that a lot of people are mowing too short," says Salaiz. "The height of grass mirrors the length of roots, so the taller the mowing height, the deeper the roots." That's because grass blades are your turf's food-manufacturing factories: the bigger they are, the more carbohydrates they can develop for the roots. Not only will mowing higher still give you a very attractive turf, but your taller grass will be able to draw water and nutrients from deeper in the soil, Salaiz says. It will also shade out more weed seeds and keep the grass' growing tips&emdash;which are right at the soil surface&emdash;cooler and healthier. In short, your taller grass will be more vigorous, with fewer weed problems and less susceptibility to damage by most diseases and insects. Despite your suspicions, you won't have to cut your lawn more often with taller grass than with shorter grass, says Salaiz&emdash;although you may not be mowing often enough now. Horticulturists advocate a "One-third Rule" for mowing frequency: Never remove more than one-third of leaf height at any one mowing. For example, if you set your mower height at 3 inches, you would mow again at 4.5 inches or sooner. In spring and fall, when cool-season grasses are growing their fastest, that may mean mowing every four to five days rather than every week. "If you can't get around to mowing that often and your mower leaves clumps of clippings behind on the lawn's surface, let the clippings dry for a few hours, then mow again," Salaiz says. That beats denying your lawn the nutritional value of those clippings. Froth On Leaves And Stems Caused By Spittlebugs By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Garden plants "frothing" about the leaves and stems are victims of a small pest insect called the spittlebug. Small, hopping, torpedo-shaped insects as adults, spittlebugs are similar in appearance to leafhoppers, but are larger and stockier, explained Glenn Fisher, entomologist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. But unlike leafhoppers, young spittlebugs are covered with froth. Spittlebugs introduce a toxin into a plant's vascular system, causing the leaves to appear distorted, yellow and/or stunted. They feed on the leaves of many ornamental and vegetable garden host plants. Some even occur on conifers. They also like to eat many types of grasses and weeds and have also been implicated in transmitting a virus to strawberries. "They position their little bodies so that their heads point downward," explained Fisher. "They insert their beaks into a stem, bud or new leaf tissue. Within a day or two, a white froth, or spittle begins to cascade down over their bodies from small glands located near their tail ends. This froth protects the spittlebug from predators and prevents it from drying out." The spittlebug over-winters in the egg stage, attached to leaf stems and leaves. Nymphs hatch out of these eggs in March and April. On strawberries, spittlebug injury is more than cosmetic or annoying. Spittlebug injury may result in fewer and smaller strawberries, he said. "They can cause reduced yield and inferior fruit when numbering just a few per foot of strawberry row," he said. To reduce spittlebug damage in your garden, Fisher recommends raking away leaves and stems of strawberry plants during the winter to help remove egg sources. Hose the plants with a relatively sharp stream of water to dislodge some spittlebugs from your plants and wash away their froth. Without the froth, some of the very small spittlebugs will dry out, providing some control, said Fisher. After clearing away the froth, insecticidal soaps may also be effective on spittlebugs, he added. Plant Cole Crops In June/July For Fall-Winter Harvest By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Do you envy those home gardeners who harvest cole crops every year through fall, winter and into spring? If you plant Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower starts and kale seed by the end of July, you may reap the bounty through the fall, winter and early spring in the milder areas of Oregon. The bottom line for coles is that temperatures should rarely dip below 12 to 15 degrees, explained Oregon State University vegetable breeder Jim Myers. Broccoli generally cannot tolerate much below the mid-20s without protection from the elements with a cloche or cold frame. Choosing the right varieties is important, as well as timing of planting. The Oregon coast, the Willamette Valley, southern Oregon and a few other warmer locations around the state are usually warm enough for year-round cole crops, unless we have one of our cold winters. Most cole crops, except kale, are subject to rot in extra wet, rainy winters, warned Myers. Purple-colored broccoli and cabbage varieties, rich in anthocyanins and flavenoid compounds, appear to be more resistant to rain-induced rot. Pest problems with fall-planted cole crops include flea beetle, cabbage maggot and aphids, which may persist over the winter, then explode in population in the spring. If you plant cole crops in June or July, they will mature from late September through March, depending on the crop, variety chosen and if there are no hard freezes. Broccoli can be directly seeded into garden soil. Sow seeds about a half-inch deep and thin so mature broccoli plants are 10 to 15 inches apart. If you transplant seedlings, expect to harvest mature broccoli one to two weeks earlier than with direct seeding. To harvest, cut heads before they flower. Good broccoli varieties to plant in early summer for fall and winter harvest in Oregon include: Packman, Shogun, Green Valiant, Southern Comet and Minaret F1, a Romanesco type with unusual spiraled heads. Broccoli and cauliflower will overwinter at lower temperatures if they have not yet set flower buds, said Myers. There are some bred for winter production, which you plant in the late summer or early fall and harvest in the early spring. Brussels sprouts are extremely cold hardy. Plant seeds or starts like broccoli, then thin plants to 24 inches apart when mature. Pick when the buds are firm, starting at the bottom of the plant first. Brussels sprouts may become sweeter after a couple of frosts. Recommended varieties include Craton, Lunet, Fortress and Oliver. Larger, slower-growing varieties of cabbage are best to plant for fall and winter harvest. Sow and grow cabbage like broccoli. Thin to 15 to 24 inches apart and then harvest when heads are well-rounded and firm. OSU-recommended cabbage varieties for June planting include Excel, Meteor, Red Rodan, Danish Ballhead, Green Winter, Chieftain Savoy, January King, Rio Verde and Savoy King. Watch out &endash; both Brussels sprouts and cabbage have a tendency to bolt in the late winter, said Myers. If the outer leaves suffer rot, just peel them off and enjoy the interior. Cauliflower needs slightly acidic, humus-rich soil. Before planting cauliflower, add organic matter such as compost if you have heavy clay soil. Cauliflower is a little more cold tolerant than broccoli, as it has outer leaves that protect the head from freezing. As with all cole crops, cauliflower needs a complete fertilizer for rapid growth and good heads. Thin plants to mature about 24 inches apart. OSU-recommended varieties of cauliflower for summer planting include Armado April, Maya and Inca for over-wintering and for late summer and fall harvest grow White Rock, Candied Charm and Snow Crown. For surest success, plant kale, the most cold-hearty cole crop of the whole lot.

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