April 2004

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OSU Extension Pub Helps Keep Roses Healthy By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Oregon has some of the best rose growing country in the world. Unfortunately, the same conditions that favor roses also favor diseases and pests that can plague them. Because of their disease and pest problems, many home gardeners perceive roses as "trouble plants." But roses need not be difficult to grow. Simple adjustments in rose care can improve the health of your plants with a minimum of pesticide use. The OSU Extension Service offers a handy publication that takes some of the mystery away from keeping your roses healthy, called "Controlling Diseases and Aphids on Your Roses." This six-page circular is packed with information on the most common rose afflictions: black spot, rust, powdery mildew and aphids. It identifies conditions that favor infection and suggests practices to help effectively control these problems. Rather than discussing controls for each specific problem, the OSU publication treats the rose as a whole organism. It offers a year-round integrated approach to pest and disease control. For more information on "Controlling Diseases and Aphids on Your Roses," EC 1520, visit our on-line catalog. Our publications and video catalog at: http://eesc.oregonstate.edu/agcomwebfile/edmat shows which publications are available on the Web and which can be ordered as printed publications. Minimize Herbicide Drift With Good Management By Peg Herring, Oregon State University Spray planes swoop over agricultural fields. Homeowners clear weeds from roadsides and pastures. Spring is in the air, along with seasonal applications of pesticides and fertilizers. Mary Corp, OSU Extension weed specialist in Umatilla County, warns that the arrival of spring brings increased concern about drifting herbicides and the potential damage they can cause. "Suburban neighborhoods are encroaching into rural lands at the same time that herbicide-tolerant crops are becoming more common in agricultural fields," said Corp. "That means there is increasing chance that problems can occur if herbicides drift off course." In addition, spring weather patterns with strong inversions and windy days make it hard to find enough time to make successful herbicide applications, according to Corp. Damage to crops and ornamental plants can inadvertently occur when some kinds of herbicides drift off target, either by shifting air currents or by spraying at high pressure. Even small amounts of drifting spray can affect new growth of sensitive crops, according to Corp. "There are many herbicide-sensitive crops across the state," said Corp. "Grapes in particular are sensitive to phenoxy-type herbicides throughout their growing season." You can minimize spray drift by selecting the proper equipment and using good application techniques, according to Corp. Management instructions and warnings are found on the herbicide label and must be followed carefully. In addition, Corp recommends the following practices to reduce the potential for drifting spray. Select herbicides that are less likely to injure sensitive crops. All herbicides can drift as spray droplets, but some herbicides vaporize and drift farther as fumes. For example, the esters of 2,4-D or MCPA can produce damaging vapors, while the amines of 2,4-D or MCPA are less volatile and usually drift as heavier droplets or dry particles. Use nozzles that produce large spray droplets. Small droplets take longer to fall to the ground, and so they drift farther and vaporize more quickly. Switching from standard flat-fan nozzles to venturi nozzles increases droplet size and can greatly reduce the amount of drift. Reduce the distance between nozzle and target (boom height). Less distance means less time to travel from nozzle to target and therefore less drift. Do not spray when humidity is low and temperature is high. Low relative humidity and high temperatures will cause more rapid evaporation of spray droplets between the spray nozzle and the target. Evaporation reduces droplet size, which in turn increases the potential drift of spray droplets. Do not spray when the wind blows toward sensitive crops. The amount of herbicide lost from the target area and the distance the herbicide moves will increase as wind velocity increases, so greater wind velocity generally will cause more drift. However, severe crop injury from drift can occur with even a light breeze, especially under conditions that result in vertically stable air. Reduce spray pressure. As the spray solution emerges from the nozzle in a sheet, droplets form at the edge of the sheet. Increased nozzle pressure causes the sheet to be thinner, breaking into smaller droplets. Reduced spray pressure and larger orifice nozzles produce a thicker sheet of spray and larger droplets less likely to drift. Communicate with your neighbors before you spray. Communication is essential among growers, neighbors and crop consultants, especially as more suburban neighborhoods encroach into agricultural areas and as use of herbicide-tolerant crops is increasing. Plant Disease-Resistant Apple Varieties By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Are you thinking about planting some new apple trees on your property this winter or spring? If you want to apply chemicals to control apple diseases, your best bet is to plant disease-resistant varieties. In western Oregon, apple scab is the apple disease that requires the greatest number of fungicidal sprays for control. An alternative to using fungicides is to plant scab-immune varieties, explained Tom Darnell, horticulturist with the Umatilla County office of the Oregon State University Extension Service. Since 1985, OSU has tested scab-immune and scab-resistant apple varieties at their experimental farms in Corvallis. The trees received no fungicide applications. The following apple varieties showed no symptoms of apple scab infection, plus had good flavor: • Redfree&emdash;a medium-small crisp, sweet red apple that matures in late August. • Priscilla&emdash;a small, part red apple that matures in mid-September. • Nova Easy Gro&emdash;a medium, dull-red apple that also matures in mid-September. • Liberty&emdash;a medium red very firm apple that matures in early October. Rated as having the best flavor of all the apple-scab immune varieties. Also, the apple cultivars Akane (Tokyo Rose), Chehalis, Prima, Spartan and Tydeman Red have shown good resistance to scab and good quality in our region, according to the 2004 PNW Plant Disease Management Handbook, edited by OSU Extension plant pathologists. In eastern Oregon, fire blight on apples is the major problem on apples. Susceptible varieties include Gala, Fuji and Braeburn, said Darnell. According to the 2004 Pacific Northwest Plant Disease Control Handbook, the following apple varieties are resistant to fire blight: Liberty, Northern Spy, Prima, Red Delicious, Redfree, Spur Delicious, Stayman Winesap. "Fire blight isn't usually a problem every year in eastern Oregon, but when it hits it is very damaging and almost impossible for the homeowner to control or manage," said Darnell. For more information, the OSU Extension and Experiment Station website offers for no charge, a four-page circular, "Scab-immune apple varieties for new orchards," by Robert L. Stebbins, OSU Extension horticulture specialist emeritus. The publication talks about prevention of apple scab, origin of scab-immune varieties, and detailed descriptions of 11 apples varieties found to be immune to apple scab in Corvallis. For more information on "Scab-immune apple varieties for new orchards," EC 1334, visit our on-line catalog. Our publications and video catalog at: http://eesc.oregonstate.edu/agcomwebfile/edmat shows which publications are available on the Web and which can be ordered as printed publications. Aphid-Infested Shrubs Provide Food For Carpenter Ants By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University "Carpenter ants are eating my house!" is a familiar complaint to Jack DeAngelis, Oregon State University Extension urban entomologist. However, it is a misnomer. "Carpenter ants don't eat wood," explained DeAngelis. "They only nest in it." To make their nests, carpenter ants scrape out sound, dry wood, wall voids, tree stumps, attic insulation or anything else that can be made into a cavity. They can wreck havoc on a house, causing thousands of dollars of damage. So what do carpenter ants eat? These large black ants survive mainly on aphid honeydew, a sticky, sweet liquid secreted by aphids living on plants near an ant nest, explained DeAngelis. "A good reason not to plant shrubs right next to your house is that they may have aphids that attract the carpenter ants," he said. Carpenter ants may "tend" the tiny plant-sucking aphids, much like shepherds tend their flocks. They also scavenge for food and can be predators as well. They are known to enter houses and other wooden buildings via the telephone, television or electrical cables, especially if they pass near trees that harbor aphids. If you see small sawdust piles or trails of large ants leading into a dwelling, perhaps through a crack or under siding, or hear scraping sounds of worker ants as they enlarge the nest inside a wall, you can be pretty sure you have a carpenter ant infestation. Carpenter ant control is often best left to competent pest control operators, sometimes called "exterminators," said DeAngelis. "They have access to products that home owners don't and they have the experience necessary to locate nests," he said. DeAngelis offers some advice for things to keep in mind if you have to call a pest control operator: Contact as many companies as possible and interview them. If you don't get straight answers, go somewhere else. Beware of "deals." Don't be panicked into a quick decision by such statements as, "I'll do it for half price today, because I've got some leftover insecticide in the tank," or "If you let it go, who knows how much damage these critters will do." Don't fall prey to a "fumigation" pitch. Fumigation is expensive (up to $3,000), and almost never necessary. Most monthly or yearly maintenance treatments are unnecessary as well. Most situations can be dealt with on a one-time basis followed up by annual inspections. "Carpenter ant treatments are safe when done correctly," he said. "Gone are the highly toxic, long-persistence insecticides of yesteryear. But it is still a good idea to keep kids away from freshly treated areas. Remove pets and cover fish tanks." You can now buy bait for carpenter ants in stores, but these products are so new on the market, that their effectiveness is unknown, said DeAngelis. Soil Ph: Get Your Garden's Number This Spring University of Idaho HomeWise By Marlene Fritz, University of Idaho Azaleas prefer theirs between 4.5 and 6.0. Hollyhocks are happiest between 6.0 and 7.5. Mint thrives between 7.0 and 8.0. When it comes to soil pH, plants have clear preferences-and some are clearly more tolerant than others of deviations from a neutral 7.0. If your plants aren't as healthy as you think they should be, consider checking your soils for pH levels this spring. Soil pH-a measure of acidity or alkalinity-matters to gardeners because it matters to the beneficial soil microbes that break down organic matter and release essential nutrients and minerals. Bob Tripepi, a University of Idaho horticulturist, says these microorganisms generally do their best work in the mid-ranges of pH, releasing the most life-sustaining elements to plants when soil pH is between 6.0 and 7.0. Most northern Idaho gardeners will find their soils ranging from a slightly acidic 5.3 to an optimal 6.4 pH. "I strongly discourage homeowners in northern Idaho from changing pH values," says Bob Mahler, a UI soil scientist. "The only exceptions are when they want to plant blueberries, azaleas or rhododendrons, in which case they may need a rapid pH change downward." In southern Idaho, soil pH values usually range from 7.3 to 8.2-some of the most alkaline in the nation. "Many of the ornamental plants that homeowners want to grow evolved in soils that are acid," says Mahler. "To get the best out of these plants, gardeners need to lower the soil pH. Native plants are different because they evolved in high pH soils." Your county Extension educator can advise you on how to have your soil tested. If results show that your pH is too high for the plants you prefer to grow, Mahler advises southern Idahoans to incorporate elemental sulfur and northern Idahoans to apply aluminum sulfate. Since any changes you make will only be temporary, you might find it easier to change your preferences-to a more limited palette of plants that can tolerate more alkaline soils. One of the most common ailments in southern Idaho landscapes is iron deficiency. High pH soils do contain iron but in an insoluble form that roots can't take up to meet plant needs. The symptoms of "iron chlorosis": yellow or yellowish-white leaves with green veins, especially in newer growth. The results: entire twigs, limbs and plants may die. You can prevent iron chlorosis in early spring, before leaves appear, by making soil applications of iron chelates or such acidulated soil amendments as Iron-sul. During the growing season, you can spray iron compounds on leaves and other plant tissues. A product like Sprint® 330 can be applied to either soil or foliage. For more information, click on www.info.ag.uidaho.edu and browse the publications catalog for "Controlling Iron Deficiency in Idaho Plants" and "Fertilizing Gardens." Or, call UI Ag Publications at (208) 885-7982 and place an order. Cost of the first publication (Order #1068) is $3.62, including shipping, handling and Idaho sales tax. Cost of the second (Order #367) is $1.87. How To Make Gardening Season Easier For Arthritis Sufferers By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Most of us probably know someone with arthritis, a painful joint disorder that can discourage its sufferers from gardening. Or maybe you experience this pain or another disabling condition yourself. "When thinking about gardening for those with physical challenges, the most important thing to keep in mind is: bring the garden to the gardener," said Jan McNeilan, consumer horticulturist and statewide Master Gardener program coordinator for the Oregon State University Extension Service. To make the gardening season easier and more pleasurable for arthritis sufferers, McNeilan has come up with some helpful strategies, including: • Garden in raised beds or containers. Raised beds minimize bending and stooping. Containers can be moved around for convenience. Almost any plant can be grown in a pot or box, if the box or pot is the right size for the plants. • Select plants carefully. Plants provide food, color, interest, and aroma or can simply be good friends. Consider the plant's height, expected life span and the amount of attention and special care it needs, including watering, fertilization and pest control. Perennials don't have to be reseeded each year, making less work. • Make work areas accessible. Make gardening walkways three feet wide, with a non-slippery surface. Provide handrails or hand grips where possible. • Use equipment that is easy on the body. Use inexpensive foam pads when kneeling. Lightweight tools with soft enlarged handles are best. Foam pipe insulation can be put on handles to soften the grip. A carpenter's apron has deep pockets, perfect for carrying tools and seeds. Buy gloves that are large enough to insert foam padding in them to ease joint pain and foster better gripping. Mechanical "click" seeders or seed tape eliminate the need to grasp tiny seeds and help space seeds evenly. Many specially adapted tools for easy grip are available at garden shops and nurseries. • Use a sprinkler large enough that it will water the whole area and won't have to be moved around. Or better yet, use a drip irrigation system for a trouble free consistent water source for the plants. • Wear a whistle around your neck, especially if you are alone, to call for help if you need it. If you have a cordless or cellular telephone, it might be good to have it nearby. • Pace yourself and don't overdo. Take a rest now and then. Alter your expectations to fit your abilities. Your garden will wait! Treasure Valley Pest Alert Extends Services to Potato Growers Statewide By Marlene Fritz, university of Idaho Potato growers throughout southern Idaho can sign up for e-mail alerts letting them know when crop pests have been spotted and when forecasts indicate they're likely to occur. Sponsored by the University of Idaho and Oregon State University, the alerts will cover insects, diseases and even unexpected weed infestations. Jeff Miller, UI potato plant pathologist in Aberdeen, says the e-mail service will be the primary vehicle for releasing predictions of whether this year's late blight threat will be high or low and whether or when pink rot has been spotted. "This will be the major way we will distribute our information," he says. "We're hoping that more growers will sign on." The Treasure Valley Pest Alert Network has been available to southwestern Idaho and eastern Oregon growers since 2001. It now covers all crops throughout the Treasure Valley and potatoes throughout southern Idaho. In addition to getting a head's up as soon as a pest outbreak is verified, participating growers can find extensive information on pests and pest management on its Web site. They can also use the service to report pest problems arising in their own fields. Jerry Neufeld, UI Extension educator in Canyon County, says accurate and timely Web-based communications should allow producers to use pesticides more judiciously, reduce crop losses and improve their overall pest management. The Web site is located at www.tvpestalert.net. Growers can register on line at no cost. For more information, write Miller at jsmiller@uidaho.edu or Neufeld at jerryn@uidaho.edu. Phosphorus Fertilization More Important In Drought Montana State University News Phosphorus fertilizer increases barley's growth and water-use efficiency, a Montana State University-Bozeman study suggests. "Grain yield increased dramatically in greenhouse tests with phosphorus fertilization under low-moisture conditions," said Clain Jones of Montana State University's Department of Land Resources and Environmental Sciences. Adding phosphorus fertilizer to Montana soils with low or moderate concentrations of phosphorus has been recommended for years, but this study shows that adding phosphorus may be even more important in drought years, said Jones. Jones said that even though people have a tendency to fertilize less when soil moisture is low, the greenhouse studies in 2002 indicated that the addition of phosphorus to low- and medium-phosphorus soils increases barley biomass and grain yield under low moisture conditions. Low and medium phosphorus soils represent over three-fourths of soils tested in Montana, according to the Potash and Phosphate Institute. Though phosphorus can partially make up for lack of water, such fertilization probably would not make up for the severe drought that has occurred in parts of Montana over the past several years. A soil with eight parts per million of "Olsen P," a common phosphorus designation, was considered a medium soil test phosphorus level for this study. Fertilizing the medium soil-test-phosphorus dry soil with 50 pounds of P2O5 per acre doubled grain yield compared to the soil fertilized with 15 pounds of P2O5 per acre, though grain yield was almost identical in the wet soils for these two application rates. Increases in grain yield with added phosphorus in the field may be less than in the greenhouse, he noted. "Basically, phosphorus increases yield and water-use efficiency, likely by increasing early season root growth," said Jones. Jones cautioned that the economics of adding phosphorus were not a part of the study. However, Montana fertilizer guidelines have long recommended added phosphorus based on yield and economics. "Our study simply points out that phosphorus may have more of an effect under dry conditions than under wet conditions, so boosting soil test phosphorus levels and fertilizing even in dry years may be warranted," he said. Because it may be difficult to justify spending more money in a dry year on phosphorus fertilizer, increasing soil test phosphorus levels in moist years may be a more appealing option to offset yield losses in subsequent dry years, he added. Is It Low Self-Esteem Or Shyness? University Of Idaho Homewise By Marlene Fritz, University of Idaho A child avoids eye contact, is reluctant to accept friendly gestures and expresses discomfort in unfamiliar places or around unfamiliar people. Parents may sometimes worry about these behaviors and assume that low self-esteem is at their root, but children who act this way are often simply shy," says Diane Demarest, University of Idaho coordinator of the parents as teachers demonstration project. "Basic inherited temperament affects how comfortable people feel in social settings, and many children are born predisposed to being shy," says Demarest. "These children are often referred to as 'slow-to-warm-up.' their parents might reflect back to when they were infants: how did these shy children respond to new situations or changes in routine then? Temperament is a stable feature, and the tendencies we see towards shyness or gregariousness often last from infancy into adulthood." "Children can also be shy because they lack social opportunities, feel a need for privacy, fear new experiences or perceive differences in personality or intellect between themselves and other children. Regardless of the reasons, shy children are often very comfortable and content with themselves," says Demarest. "On the other hand, children who suffer from low self-esteem don't view themselves positively. They have difficulty persevering with tasks, have frequent outbursts and tend to be pessimistic and easily discouraged. When children are simply shy, Demarest encourages parents to build on their youngsters' strengths and provide extra encouragement and reinforcement in social situations. "Talk about new situations before they occur and allow extra time to warm up to new people and new places, with parents close at hand," she says. "Inherited traits can't be erased, but parents who appreciate their children's uniqueness can avoid underestimating them and can help them adapt and learn," says Demarest. Sheep Producers Announce Annual Field Day Understanding lamb death loss, pasture research, and drug residue avoidance are among several topics to be addressed at an upcoming field day sponsored by Spokane Area Sheep Producers' Association and Washington State University Cooperative Extension. The field day will be held at Feustel Farms, one of the areas larger sheep farms operated by Jill and Art Swannack southeast of Sprague. It is scheduled for Saturday, April 24th, from 10 a.m. to 2:45 p.m. Other topics include sheep management tips, lamb quality assurance, sheep research at the University of Idaho, showing lambs, and making your herding dog work. Area sheep producers, youth and adult alike, are invited. Lunch will be provided by the Sheep Producers' Association which requests that you help them plan for lunch by making reservations with Jim Acuff at 208/777-3082 or Helen Lee at 208/245-4144, where a map and instructions for traveling to Feustel Farms is also available. For accommodations of special need, or for more information, contact Tom Platt at 509/725-4171.

Why Does Society Value Superstar Athletes More Than Nurses? By Suzi Taylor, Montana State University News The average nurse in the United States makes $45,000 a year; the average fireman, $33,000. Yet the lowest-paid Major League Baseball player makes $300,000 per year, with many pro athletes signing contracts for 10 to 20 times that sum. Is our society out of whack for valuing spectator sports more than nursing and public safety? The situation can be explained through economics, says Andy Hanssen, an associate professor in the agricultural economics and economics department at Montana State University-Bozeman. Hanssen recently discussed why pro athletes are paid so much while essential workers are paid so little during a training session for economics teachers from 12 Montana communities. First of all, says Hanssen, who has researched many other sports economics topics, "worth" is a value-laden concept. Just because Atlanta Braves pitcher Greg Maddux will earn $14.75 million this year doesn't mean his skills are more useful to society than a nurse's or fireman's. It simply means that the Braves owners believe Maddux's presence on the team will translate to an additional $14.75 million (or more) through increased ticket sales, TV viewers, merchandise sales and team victories. If the owners didn't think they'd get their money's worth out of pro athletes, they would not pay such high salaries. Next, says Hanssen, is the economic concept of "the last unit sold." "Salaries, like all market prices, reflect the value to buyers of the last unit sold," he said. Simply put, that means one additional nurse would not greatly increase the level of service provided by the country's sum total of nurses. However, said Hanssen, one more pitcher of Maddux's caliber would have a huge impact on Major League Baseball. In short, nurses are more abundant and easily interchangeable than are professional athletes. Again, added Hanssen, salary is not a reflection of a nurse's value to society. In fact, he said, the total contributions of the country's nurses far exceeds the total contributions of its athletes. And, if the U.S. had only 750 nurses&emdash;as it does Major League Baseball players&emdash;nurses would be the ones signing multi-million-dollar contracts. In summary, Hanssen said, the widespread interest in professional sports coupled with a small supply of potential athletes means high salaries for those who can make it to the big leagues. Conversely, even though the country has a high need for nurses, that is countered by an equally high potential supply, meaning much lower salaries for those who choose the profession. Questions like "are athletes really worth it?" can help students understand economics, said Hanssen, who presented the paycheck conundrum and other probing sports topics at the Feb. 28 training at MSU in Bozeman. Organizers of the event believe that while high school students may not perk up their ears for supply and demand curves or the law of diminishing marginal returns, they might tune in to economics if intrigued by real-world issues like skyrocketing ticket prices, salary caps and organized drafts. Other sessions covered seat belt laws, the Endangered Species Act and the minimum wage. The workshop was sponsored by the MSU Department of Agricultural Economics and Economics, the Montana Council on Economic Education and the Calvin K. Kazanjian Economics Foundation. The session was designed to help high school teachers and community college instructors use real-world issues to teach economics. Why Buy That? Good Question!! University of Idaho HomeWise By Marlene Fritz, University of Idaho To shore you up when your will power begins to let you down, University of Idaho Extension family economics specialist Marilyn Bischoff suggests you slip a copy of these questions into your wallet&emdash;preferably next to that worn-out credit card. When tempted by a new purchase, ask yourself: &emdash;Will this purchase meet one of my goals? &emdash; Do I really want and need it? &emdash; Can I afford it? &emdash;What must I give up to have it? &emdash;Am I buying this only because it's on sale? &emdash;Would I buy this if I had to pay cash? &emdash;Am I buying because I'm depressed? &emdash;Would I come back tomorrow to buy this? &emdash;How much do I owe on my credit card this month? &emdash;If I charge this, can I pay off this month's bill? &emdash;Could I feel better now without spending money? "Don't leave home without this list," says Bischoff. "Too many of our purchases are spur-of-the-moment. They're not needs-and, if we really thought about it for 24 hours-they're not really wants, either." Caught In "The Matrix," Infrared Beams Serve Their Masters By Carol Flaherty, Montana State University News This is a picture of the commercial unit circuitry that was staged to show a rice weevil at the intersection of the two infrared beams. The "peach bullets" are the beam generating LEDs and the "black bullets" are the beam receiving phototransistors. The plastic sensor head, that normally encases the electronic components shown, is removed for this picture.Recently, a bug in a grain bin near Moccasin fell into a trap and entered into a kind of buggy equivalent of "The Matrix," where infrared beams counted and measured it, automatically logging its existence in a database. The insect in question had entered that realm of light-beams and computers that a few years ago was science fiction but today is part of the wave of useful gear in the newest technology toolboxes. David Weaver, a Montana State University-Bozeman entomologist, says the Moccasin bins have been monitored for the past two years with prototypes of an automated insect detection system initially developed by USDA-Agricultural Research Service scientists. The goal of the system is to help minimize grain loss due to insects and to reduce the need for fumigants that are sometimes used to protect stored grain. Weaver has been working for years with the USDA's principal investigator on the project, Dennis Shuman, who invented the system. The Electronic Grain Probe Insect Counter is being sold now in limited numbers under the trade name "Insector ®." "I want people to know about this system, because I think they'll benefit from it," says Weaver, who adds that he is not a patent holder and will not make money from system sales. Eventually, the system could be used on all sorts of grains, nuts and vegetables in storage. Grain monitoring for insects has been difficult until now. The available insect traps used to require a fair amount of labor. The trap was put into the grain and the farmer or manager had to periodically climb into the bin to retrieve the trap, then pour out its contents to identify the types of insects and whether they were likely to damage the grain. All grain harbors some insects, says Weaver. The question is to know whether the insects are numerous enough to be a problem. In grain bins, condensation can drip into the bin, much as window condensation drips onto the window ledge. In a grain bin, the moisture supports microbial activity that builds up warmth. Under those conditions, just a few insects can multiply in the warm food-filled haven, with five or 10 grain-eating weevils becoming many thousand within months. Such insects eat the grain, leaving damaged kernels, so farmers and buyers would fumigate stored grain to keep it safe. When the weather turns cold soon after harvest, the grain cools quickly. Without warmth, insects either don't multiply or do so slowly. Grain bins can be both huge and dangerous, and if you have many bins, keeping track of insects would be time consuming. With the USDA-ARS technology Weaver recently tested in Moccasin and Baker, farmers and grain handlers will be able to automate surveillance for insects in grain bins, learning not only that bugs are present but roughly how many and what types of bugs are in the bin. The trap can be configured to let insects escape after they are recorded, since their numbers are inconsequential compared to all those that aren't trapped. In this new USDA-ARS system, the insect falling into the trap is counted and measured by two infrared beams to provide two different views of the insect. Not all insects are a threat. For each type of commodity, the problem insects are of a known size. Depending upon how much of the infrared beam is blocked by the insect, the computer software compares the size of the insect to the size of problem insects. "This represents an enormous improvement over conventional trapping or bulk grain sampling," said Weaver in a September 2003 article in "Biophotonics International." Monitoring grain and other commodities for insects has been recommended for many years, but the difficulty of monitoring prevented it from being widely adopted. "This technology is really important in Montana, because if our producers do things right, they should have limited risk. And with this Electronic Grain Probe Insect Counter, we can now be doing things right by just monitoring the data being transferred into a computer database in the office. The insect counters are expected to last for years and are likely to sell for less than $200, said Weaver. "This technology may spook producers at first. They think there shouldn't be any insects in their new grain. But in truth there are at least a few insects even in newly stored grain," says Weaver. More information on the trap is available on the Web at: www.ars.usda.gov/is/AR/archive/jul03/insect0703.htm A Dead Tree Or Shrub? Learn From A Post-Mortem Analysis By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Do you have a tree or shrub that just didn't make it through the winter? There are many reasons a woody plant dies, explained Barb Fick, home horticulturist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. Think about your deceased shrub or tree's life. Sometimes a "post-mortem" analysis can help you learn how to better care for a tree or shrub next time around. Consider the weather. It was a stressful winter, with heavy snow pack and ice in many areas of the state, causing a lot of limb breakage. Were there rapid changes from warm to cold? Temperature fluctuations can sometimes stress a woody perennial enough to kill it, especially if that perennial is not a hardy variety or is not well-established. Like a human being, a tree or shrub can die from a disease or pest infestation. Next time, take a sample of the ailing plant, before it dies, in for an examination by a horticulture agent or Master Gardener at your local county office of the OSU Extension Service. The cause of death might have been related to its care &endash; or lack thereof. Think about some other factors in your expired tree or shrub's life history. Did you plant it correctly? If you did, you took the container off and gently loosened matted roots. You also used the same soil you took out of the planting hole to backfill the hole and didn't plant it too high or too low in its planting hole. Did you fertilize it too much or not enough? If you mixed a handful of chemical fertilizer into the hole when you planted that tree or shrub, it could have fatally burned the roots. Try an organic fertilizer next time&emdash;rotted manure, compost or an organic mix is less likely to burn the roots of a woody perennial. Or you can wait to fertilize until after the plant begins to establish. Did you plant it where the drainage was poor? A common reason for shrub and tree death is poorly drained soils. The roots become waterlogged and die. To improve drainage, add lots of organic matter such as compost over the entire area. For very poorly drained soil, consider building a raised bed. Did you water it enough last summer? Newly planted shrubs and trees don't have extensive root systems, so you need to water often at the base of the plant. Water slowly and deeply. Pay special attention to any plants you have growing under the eaves of the house&emdash;they receive very little moisture and can dry out easily, especially in years with little rain. If the plant had pale green, undersized foliage and little growth last year, and has never been fertilized, it may have just expired for no good reason at all. Biotech Plantings The U.S. Department of Agriculture said last week that 86 percent of the soybeans planted this year&emdash;about 75 million acres&emdash;will be biotech varieties that are resistant to herbicides. About 76 percent of U.S. cotton will be biotech, along with nearly half the corn planted this year. The number of acres planted with biotech seeds have been on the rise annually in most crop categories since their introduction in 1996. It's Obnoxious, But Is It Noxious? University of Idaho HomeWise By Marlene Fritz, University of Idaho Of the hundreds of weeds that have invaded Idaho, only 36 are formally designated as "noxious" by Idaho state law. Unless landowners live in special management zones, they're legally required to prevent above-ground growth of those dirty three-dozen. "Idaho's Noxious Weeds," a 76-page spiral-bound booklet published by the University of Idaho College of Agricultural and Life Sciences, includes detailed descriptions, updated distribution maps and color photographs of the weeds as seedlings, as early-season rosettes and as blooming plants. It was developed for all Idahoans, whether they live on city lots or country acreages-although the control guidelines supplement in its back pocket is intended strictly for noncrop and rangeland sites, not home gardens and landscapes. Noxious weeds cost Idaho millions of dollars a year by degrading wildlife habitat, choking streams and waterways, crowding out beneficial native plants, creating fire hazards in forest and rangelands, poisoning and injuring livestock and humans, and fouling recreation sites. To earn a spot on the noxious weed list: º A weed must be present in Idaho but not native to it. º It must be potentially more harmful than beneficial to Idaho. º Eradicating it should be economically and physically feasible. º Its potential adverse impact should exceed its cost of control. Dandelions aren't on the list and neither is cheatgrass. But Canada thistle, field bindweed (morning glory), musk thistle, puncturevine, purple loosestrife and rush skeletonweed are. To identify the unintended plants emerging on your property this year, order a copy of "Idaho's Noxious Weeds" from UI Agricultural Publications. Click on http://info.ag.uidaho.edu, call 208/885-7982 or write agpubs@uidaho.edu and request Order #1031. Cost, with shipping, handling and Idaho sales tax, is $8.80. The booklet is published in cooperation with the Idaho Weed Coordinating Committee and the Idaho State Department of Agriculture. How To Grow Artichokes And Cardoons By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Giant thistle-like plants, artichokes and cardoons are beautiful as well as edible. Their prickly-silver leaves make an excellent backdrop in any garden. Whether you live east or west of the Cascades, artichokes and cardoons are fun and relatively easy to grow. Most artichokes are grown commercially in the cool, moist climate of coastal California. Western Oregon's climate is usually mild enough to grow these edible thistles as perennials, if they are cut back and mulched in the winter. In many places on the east side, with a little coaxing, you can grow artichokes as annuals, planting new ones each year. Artichokes will grow well in most locations in Oregon except in areas area with frost any month of the year, or in the Snake or Columbia River Valleys. The Oregon State University Extension Service recommends the following artichoke varieties: Green Globe and Imperial Star. If you want to grow artichokes from seed, you need to start them in late February or March indoors, under grow lights for about eight weeks and planted out after the last frost. In May or June, it is best to purchase starts from your local nursery or mail order catalog. Plant artichoke starts in deep, well-amended soil in full sun. Space them three to five feet apart. Since they can grow three feet or more in height, think about the shade they will cast when planning your garden. Mulch and water regularly. By mid-summer, your artichoke plant should send up flower buds, which should be harvested before they open if you want to eat them. If you let them flower, they will produce a huge purple thistle that can be dried and used in arrangements. If you harvest all the flowering heads, artichokes often send up a second crop of flowers in the fall in milder climates. An artichoke will produce well for about three or four years. After that time, it is best to dig and divide it, as it produces off shoot plants that may crowd the original plant. In the fall, cut back your artichoke plant and mulch it with a covering of leaves or straw. After mild winters, new plants will sprout from the old parent plant in the spring. Uncover them in April. Cold winters, such as this past winter in western Oregon, may kill artichokes, whether or not they are mulched. Cardoons are a close relative of the artichoke, grown for their thick fleshy leaf bases. Harvest, peel, steam and enjoy! Do You Grow Wormy Tree Fruit? Safely Control Codling Moths By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University The codling moth may be the most damaging insect pest in home orchards of apple, pear, plum or walnut trees. The most common method used by many home orchardists for codling moth control is to repeatedly spray with insecticide throughout the fruit-growing season. But there are also several other less toxic alternative control methods available, according to Jack DeAngelis, entomologist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. What do codling moths look like? The adults are roughly of an inch across the front wings. The wings are gray-brown, with lighter gray lines and golden or bronze colored areas near the tips. The larva or "worm" is white, tinged with pink with a brown head and about a half-inch long when fully grown. Codling moths begin to emerge when apples are in bloom, sometime in May or June. Young larvae bore into the developing fruit, feed for about three weeks, leave the fruit, pupate and emerge as adults about two weeks later (the second generation). Two to four complete generations can occur each summer, depending on location and length of the growing season. The standard traditional control program for codling moth control is to begin spraying trees with insecticide about one to two weeks after petal fall, with repeat sprays at one to three week intervals, four to six times during fruit growth, said DeAngelis. "Frequency and total number of applications depends on numbers of codling moths in your area and the level of damage that you are willing to accept," said DeAngelis. "It is very important that you check with your local Extension office for specifics about controlling codling moth, especially if your orchard is near commercial orchards. Be sure to read and follow the pesticide product label. The label is the final word on what does or does not constitute a legal and safe application." There are some other less toxic methods for control. For those wishing to use fewer pesticides, DeAngelis described a number of other methods available for reducing damage to your fruit trees from codling moths including: Pheromone lures and traps: "Pheromones are compounds that mimic the sex attractant odor used by female moths to attract a male suitor," explained DeAngelis. "Synthetic [manufactured] pheromones are available for many pests, including the codling moth." Pheromone traps are made by attaching pheromones to a sticky board. Male moths are attracted to the scent and stick to the board. These traps are useful for monitoring adult moth flight and can help you schedule when spraying would be most effective&emdash;only when moths are present. Bagging: Tie a paper sack around each individual apple and pear to protect it from pests, after fruit thinning in May or June. Bagging is time consuming. Banding and Sanitation: Put a sticky band of Tanglefoot ™, a sticky material available from garden supply stores, around the trunk of your fruit trees. Since mature larvae move down the tree in search of a place to pupate, they can be trapped in the sticky substance. Then be sure to remove fallen fruit in the autumn to avoid letting the moths complete their life cycle in your orchard another year. Least-toxic pesticides: Least-toxic solutions to the codling moth problem are limited because once the larva is inside the fruit, most insecticides, including the least-toxics, are ineffective, said DeAngelis. "A least-toxic choice is Bt ("Bacillus thuringiensis") a microbial insecticide with very low human toxicity," he said. One caution, when using Bt you may have to apply more frequently than some pesticides because it tends not to last very long. As always, follow the label carefully." The OSU Extension Service offers a publication that demystifies disease and pest control in home orchards, called "Managing Diseases and Insects in Home Orchards." The 10-page booklet is written especially for the home gardener with fruit trees and includes information on codling moth control. "Managing Diseases and Insects in Home Orchards" is downloadable on the Web or printed copies can be ordered by mail. It includes cultural, biological and chemical approaches to controlling diseases and insects on apples, pears, cherries, prunes, plus, hazelnuts, walnuts, peaches, nectarines and apricots. Safety tips are given for applying pesticides and it covers a number of non-toxic cultural and biological practices which can help keep fruit and nut trees producing and healthy. For more information on "Controlling Diseases and Insects in Home Orchards," EC 631, visit our on-line catalog. Our publications and video catalog at: http://eesc.oregonstate.edu/agcomwebfile/edmat shows which publications are available on the Web and which can be ordered as printed publications. Swiss Chard Is Nutritious And Beautiful In Your Garden By Carol Savonen, Oregon State University Chard, also called Swiss chard, is a close relative of the beet. But unlike most beets, chard is grown for its tasty, vitamin-rich greens, rather than its root. The large green leaves have a texture similar to spinach and have edible fleshy red, yellow, orange, silver or white stalks. The varieties of chard with more prominent and sometimes colorful stems are often classified as Swiss chards. Varieties with thin, more diminutive stems and tender leaves are known as chard, perpetual spinach or leaf beets. All are cooked as a potherb, similar to spinach. The Oregon State University Extension Service recommends that home gardeners plant chard seeds about 30 days before the last frost date in your area. Plant about 6 to 10 chard seeds per foot, about an inch deep in nitrogen-rich soil. Plant in rows, 18 to 24 inches apart. Thin chard plants to about 12 inches apart to grow to their mature size, about 2 to 2-1/2 feet tall. Plants removed at thinning time can be used as salad greens. When plants get about eight inches tall, side dress with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Unless your family freezes or cans chard, four to eight plants may be enough for a family of four. Chard can be harvested throughout an entire growing season, beginning when the leaves are seven to nine inches tall. Cut outer leaves first, about one inch from the soil surface with a sharp knife. Be careful not to damage the new inner stems and growing points. Harvested chard can be stored unwashed in the refrigerator for a few days. For long-term storage, can or freeze chard. Chard can be eaten as a steamed vegetable, stir-fried and added to soups and casseroles. The OSU Extension Service recommends these varieties of chard for all areas of Oregon: Fordhook Giant, Rhubarb, Bright Lights, Bright Yellow and Silverado. Fordhook Giant has white stalks. Rhubarb chard has dark green leaves and red stalks and can be an attractive plant for a flower border. Bright Lights has a mix of different colored stalks and is truly pretty enough to be in an ornamental border. Bright Yellow has yellow stalks and Silverado has silvery appearing stalks. The following seed companies are among those offering several varieties of chard: Nichols Garden Nursery, 1190 N. Pacific Highway, Albany, Ore. 97321-4598; Renee's Garden (http://www.reneesgarden.com/); and Territorial Seed Company, Box 157, Cottage Grove, Ore. 97424. For more information on "Grow Your Own Lettuce, Spinach and Swiss Chard," EC 1268, visit our on-line catalog. Our publications and video catalog at: http://eesc.oregonstate.edu/agcomwebfile/edmat shows which publications are available on the Web and which can be ordered as printed publications.

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